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Watches And Wonders 2024 - Part 1

Watches And Wonders 2024 is well and truly underway. For those of you in Geneva, so far it seems like one of the most eventful and watch-heavy shows we've seen this side of 2020. For those of us sitting at home wishing we were there, all of the live coverage we've been getting from press releases, Instagram stories and reels and the slow trickle of podcasts and videos have been sustaining us.

Watches And Wonders 2024 has been dominated by some incredible new watches from the likes of Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Zenith and TAG Heuer.

Here are just some of the highlights of Watches And Wonders 2024 so far. Stay tuned for the next batch of new watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

  • Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre

  • Model: Duometre Chronograph Moon

  • Reference: Q622252J/Q622656J

  • Case: 42.50mm x 14.20mm

  • Case Material: Pink Gold/Platinum

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Calibre: Calibre 391

  • Price: TBA

Jaeger-LeCoultre opens its Watches And Wonders 2024 showing with the Duometre Chronograph Moon, a brand new reference that combines the beautiful romanticism of the moon with the practicality of the fan-favourite complication, the chronograph. The new Calibe 391 powers the Duometre Chronograph Moon, designed and produced in-house of course. The chronograph functions in the same manner as prior Duometre Chronograph models, with the ability to time intervals as small as 1/6th of a second, which is super fun juxtaposed with the slow rhythm of a moonphase as it eases through its 29.53-day cycle. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon is available in either platinum with a copper-coloured dial or in pink gold with a silver dial.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

  • Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre

  • Model: Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

  • Reference: Q6202420

  • Case: 44mm x 14.70mm 

  • Case Material: Pink Gold

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Calibre: Calibre 388

  • Price: TBA (Limited to 20 pieces)

With the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, the maison reminds us why it’s often referred to as the watchmakers’ watchmaker. It features a tourbillon constructed on three axes, creating a unique kinematic effect which is a first for the maison, along with a perpetual calendar and a grande date. The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual really pushes the boundaries of what we can and should expect a watchmaker like Jaeger-LeCoultre to be able to make and subsequently produce. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is as brilliant as it is captivating.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

  • Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre

  • Model: Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

  • Reference: Q604848J

  • Case: 42.50mm x 13.05mm

  • Case Material: Stainless Steel

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Calibre: Calibre 381

  • Price: TBA

The very first Duometre model in steel is here in the form of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire. Not only is it the first non-precious metal Duometre model, but it also opens the door for a fresh look for the collection with a brand new case design. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire features an abundance of minutiae details throughout the piece, and with its cold aesthetic comes an almost unique look and feel to the model that is unlike any other Duometre reference. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire solves the age-old problem of energy supply and continuity by integrating two barrels, one barrel and gear train for timekeeping and a separate barrel and gear train for the complication both linked to a single escapement. The result is reportedly absolute constancy of the power supply irrespective of whether the complication is in use or not.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon

  • Brand: Laurent Ferrier

  • Model: Classic Moon

  • Reference: LCF039.R5.G3N/LCF039.AC.C1WC

  • Case: 40mm x 12.90mm

  • Case Material: Stainless Steel/Red Gold

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Calibre: Calibre LF126.02

  • Price: TBA

Introducing the new Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon, available in either stainless steel with a grey-opaline dial or red gold with a vertically satin-finished silver dial, what we have with this piece is a reminder of the synchronicity of the independent watchmaker’s ability to create wearable works of art. With the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon we have an annual calendar and a moon phase indicator, displayed in the most legible and elegant of manners. The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon is a sophisticated blend of the maison’s subtle yet recognisable aesthetic with genuine complication practicality. The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon is powered by the atelier’s LF126.02 calibre, an in-house manually wound movement complete with a power reserve indicator on the mechanism side, displaying its 80 hour power reserve. Just lovely.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”

  • Brand: A. Lange & Söhne

  • Model:  Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”

  • Reference: 740.055FE

  • Case: 41.50mm x 14.60mm

  • Case Material: Honeygold

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Calibre: L952.4

  • Price: TBA (Limited to 50 pieces)

A. Lange & Söhne may have just stolen the show with the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Previously available in two distinct and highly sought after variations. Lange went a step above and combined two of the maison's most virtuous and most desirable techniques: Lumen and Honeygold. Endowing the DPT with both a Lumen dial and a Honeygold case has definitely propelled the new A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” into legendary, albeit untouchable, status. One of the best pieces of Watches And Wonders 2024 for sure.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”

  • Brand: A. Lange & Söhne

  • Model: Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”

  • Reference: 405.028

  • Case: 41mm x 13.10mm

  • Case Material: White Gold

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Calibre: L961.6

  • Price: TBA (Limited to 125 pieces)

A. Lange & Söhne unveiled another piece in the Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary” to commemorate the 25th year of the iconic reference. Limited to only 125 pieces, the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary” will no doubt be a trying piece to acquire, even for the seasoned Lange collector. This particular reference features a white gold case with a blue dial, offset by silvered sub-dials and of course, the oversized date window at 12 o'clock.

Czapek Promenade

  • Brand: Czapek

  • Model: Promenade

  • Reference: -

  • Case: 38mm x 10.80mm

  • Case Material: Stainless Steel

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Calibre: SXH5

  • Price: From CHF18,800

Czapek introduced a new collection of watches into the mix with the dressy Promenade. Available in three distinct variations, one with a Grand Feu enamel dial named the Goutte d'eau and two guilloché models in the Guilloché Soleil Bleu Neuit and the Guilloché Soleil Ivoire. All three models are powered by the in-house calibre SXH5, with the two guilloché references being production models and the Grand Feu variant being limited to only 100 pieces.

De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication

  • Brand: De Bethune

  • Model: DB Kind of Grande Complication

  • Reference: DBK2TV2

  • Case: 43.30mm x 13.85mm

  • Case Material: Titanium

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Calibre: DB2529

  • Price: USD450,000 (Limited to 5 pieces per year)

De Bethune unveiled a piece that it called a culmination of 22 years worth of work. The new DB Kind of Grande Complication is a delightfully complicated timepiece that features no less than 8 functions, not including a 30-minute titanium tourbillon. The DB Kind of Grande Complication boasts a dual front and back display of the hours and minutes, a secondes morte, a spherical moon phase, a leap-year indicator, a perpetual calendar, and end of power reserve indication and an age of the moon indicator. What surprises me is the relatively small size of the case, given the sheer amount of complications encased within its titanium exterior. Show stopping.

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

  • Brand: H. Moser & Cie

  • Model: Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

  • Reference: 6814-1200

  • Case: 40mm

  • Case Material: Stainless Steel

  • Water Resistance: 120m

  • Calibre: HMC-814

  • Price: USD86,90

From H. Moser & Cie is the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton. Showcasing the inner workings of the double hairspring calibre HMC-814, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton's aesthetic marries the worlds of the avant-garde with true high end horology. The interior aspects of the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton are absolutely flawless and are complimented by the smooth flow of the Streamliner case which extends to the integrated bracelet. Superb.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon

  • Brand: Roger Dubuis

  • Model: Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon

  • Reference: RDDBEX1130

  • Case: 45mm x 14.66mm

  • Case Material: Pink Gold

  • Water Resistance: 100m

  • Calibre: RD108

  • Price: USD377,000 (Limited to 8 pieces)

Roger Dubuis unveiled the new Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon, an expressive haute horlogerie piece that features a double flying monotourbillon with a differential, along with 17 distinct movement finishes including those tailored for the Poinçon de Genève certification. The Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon's pink gold case is set with 72 precious stones, including red garnets, orange spessartites and yellow sapphires. A truly remarkable sight to behold.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon

  • Brand: Roger Dubuis

  • Model: Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon

  • Reference: RDDBEX1112

  • Case: 42mm x 12.62mm

  • Case Material: Titanium

  • Water Resistance: 100m

  • Calibre: RD512

  • Price: USD151,000 (Limited to 28 pieces)

Next up in the trio of new Watches And Wonders 2024 pieces from Roger Dubuis is the lightweight Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon. Boasting the maison's infamous tourbillon in the bottom left side of the openworked dial, the Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon carries with it all of the hallmark traits of a Poinçon de Genève certified piece. Really looking forward to seeing this in the metal.

Roger Dubuis The Orbis in Machina

  • Brand: Roger Dubuis

  • Model: The Orbis in Machina

  • Reference: RDDBEX1119

  • Case: 45mm x 14.41mm

  • Case Material: Pink Gold

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Calibre: RD115

  • Price: USD225,000 (Limited to 88 pieces)

Featuring a central flying tourbillon, the new Roger Dubuis The Orbis in Machina is perhaps the maison's most unique looking timepiece of the trio. I love the interplay of that distinct central tourbillon, paired with the very traditional look of the avant garde case. But perhaps one of the coolest bits of the Roger Dubuis The Orbis in Machina is the open caseback from which you can peer through. Oh, and those open apertures really round off a brilliant bit of kit from Roger Dubuis.

Rolex Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases

Rolex unveiled a handful of new watches which I will run through briefly here and perhaps follow up with a more in-depth overview in the coming days. First off is a new GMT-Master II which, for the first time, has a grey-black Cerachrom bezel. Next is a new Day-Date range, with a slate ombré and Everose gold combo really taking the cake for me. Then there is a new ice-blue dial and platinum case Perpetual 1908. Next up is a solid yellow gold Deepsea. Yes, you read that correctly. Then a new Cosmograph Daytona with some added bling. And finally a yellow gold and Everose gold Sky-Dweller, both with Jubilee bracelets. Rolex has been busy.

Tudor Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases

In the same vein as Rolex's releases, I'll briefly run through Tudor's updates, too. Tudor didn't take the route of reinventing the wheel, releasing four very solid pieces that will sit very well with the community. The first is the new Master Chronometer Black Bay 58 GMT which features a bi-directional bezel and a very nostalgic inspired look. Then we have a Black Bay with METAS certification, positioning it as serious contender for one of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024. Then we have a Black Bay 58 in yellow gold. Yes, yellow gold seems to be the theme here. And finally the new Clair De Rose collection for our discerning female collector. Hats off to Tudor for keeping it real and restrained.

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

  • Brand: Ulysse Nardin

  • Model: Freak S Nomad

  • Reference: 2513-500LE-4A-GUI/xx

  • Case: 45mm x 16.65mm

  • Case Material: Titanium, Carbon Fibre

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Calibre: UN-251

  • Price: CHF140,600

Ulysse Nardin brought the heat to Watches And Wonders 2024 with the new Freak S Nomad seriously taking the cake as one of the show's highlights so far. Innovative, utterly brilliant and supremely polarising, the Freak S Nomad does away with convention and instead opens the door to a complete new realm of watchmaking. With that massive carousel movement looking less like a piece of horology and more like a spaceship from your favourite sci-fi movie, the Freak S Nomad is a watch that I cannot wait to get hands-on with. The Freak S Nomad has left me completely speechless. Just wow.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

  • Brand: Zenith

  • Model: Defy Skyline Chronograph

  • Reference: 03.9500.3600xx

  • Case: 42mm

  • Case Material: Stainless Steel

  • Water Resistance: 100m

  • Calibre: El Primero 3600

  • Price: CHF11,900

Zenith has finally released a chronograph version for its acclaimed Defy Skyline collection. Available with either a blue, silver or black dial and on either a bracelet or a rubber strap, the new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph has positioned itself beautifully as a very plausible alternative to some very well known all-metal chronographs. The main point of differentiation for the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph against a very stacked field is that fantastic El Primero 3600 movement whose central chronograph seconds hand complete a revolution every 10 seconds, giving the piece the capacity to measure times of up to 1/10th of a second. Nerdy, but right up my alley.

Zenith Defy Revival A3648

  • Brand: Zenith

  • Model: Defy Revival A3648

  • Reference:

  • Case: 37mm x 15.50mm

  • Case Material: Stainless Steel

  • Water Resistance: 600m

  • Calibre: Elite 670

  • Price: CHF7,400

Looking for a wearable daily watch with a whopping 600m of water resistance and all of the nostalgic time of a sports watch from yesteryear? Zenith has you covered with the new Defy Revival A3648. With a unique case shape, an equally as unique bracelet and enlarged off-centre crown, the Defy Revival A3648 is one cool customer that fits the bill as being something fun, easy to wear and a clear talking point that stands out in any crowd.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary

  • Brand: Piaget

  • Model: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary

  • Reference: G0A4951

  • Case: 41.50mm x 2mm

  • Case Material: M64BC Cobalt Alloy

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Calibre: 970P-UC

  • Price: TBA (Made to order)

Piaget unveiled its record-breaking Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary which stands at a paper-thin height of 2mm. Yes, that is the case, the tourbillon, everything. This makes it the thinnest tourbillon watch, ever. Its 2mm thickness includes the crystal, let's not forget. The thinness of the tourbillon movement of course almost entirely contributes to the overall thinness of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary, which in itself should be a masterclass for anyone even remotely interested in micro-engineering at this level.

IWC Portugieser Additions Watches And Wonders 2024

IWC introduced a plethora of new and exciting pieces to its iconic Portugieser line. First is the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, the maison's first secular perpetual calendar that considers the Gregorian calendar and that has a moon phase that it only deviates by one day after 45 million years. Next is the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night which features a flying minute tourbillon and a day/night indicator with a small globe. Then we have four new versions of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 in either white gold or Armor Gold® with either Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian or Silver Moon dials. Then there are some fresh Portugieser Chronograph references. And finally we have some new Portugieser Automatic 42 and Automatic 40 models.


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