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Dimitri Tsilioris

Watches Of The Week: 09/09/2024 - 15/09/2024



The last few weeks have been jam-packed with new watches, particularly from the Geneva Watch Days event. Now, it seems, that many watchmakers have taken the proverbial foot off the pedal, with a few namely exceptions which I will get to in a second. It's important to remember that while we are often bombarded with new watches and related watch releases, these micro-wonders often take many years of planning, research and development, along with the risk of them not being commercially accepted on their respective releases. So, with that said, I'll take my hat of to all the watchmakers who go out on a limb, take a risk and showcase their creativity, ingenuity and pioneering spirits.


On to the next lot of new watches, and while this week is a touch lighter than it has been recently, I think this Watches Of The Week edition is going to be focused on quality, as opposed to quantity. I'll be highlighting new watches from the likes of Ulysse Nardin, a couple of insanely complicated and equally as exclusive grails from Jaeger-LeCoultre, as well as a couple of more down-to-earth watches from Bell & Ross and Seiko.


Have a great week ahead watchfam.



Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 'Dragon'






  • Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre

  • Model: Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 'Dragon'

  • Reference: Q52624A3

  • Case: 45mm x 16.05mm

  • Case Material: Pink gold

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Movement: Calibre 945

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 40 hours

  • Price: Price on request (Limited to 5 pieces)


This is Jaeger-LeCoultre doing what Jaeger-LeCoultre does best, creating. The combination of artistry, workmanship and high complicated watchmaking in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 'Dragon' is flawless. With a multi-level dial complete with a celestial display and a pair of hand-sculpted gold dragons, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 'Dragon' comes with a revolving cosmotourbillon (which completes a full circuit of the dial in one sidereal day -- or 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4.1 seconds) that dances its way across the dial. The artistry isn't confined to the dial, with Jaeger-LeCoultre calling upon the Atelier des Métiers Rares™ of the manufacturer to decorate the bezel with hand-engraved scales, much like the ones on the dragons' bodies, a process which took the artisans 50 hours of work to complete. Add to that a minute repeater and what we have some is something that is beyond exemplary but completely expected from the house of Jaeger-LeCoultre.


Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184






  • Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre

  • Model: Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184

  • Reference: Q5252470

  • Case: 43mm x 14.10mm

  • Case Material: Pink gold

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Movement: Calibre 184

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 50 hours

  • Price: Price on request (Limited to 5 pieces)


Combining three of the most intricate complications of sound, precision and astronomy comes the Calibre 184. Add to that the immense art of Grand Feu enamelling and lacquring from the maison's Atelier des Métiers Rares™, and the end result is nothing less than a masterpiece. The Calibre 184 in itself contains 1,052 components and reportedly takes more than five months alone to assemble by a single master watchmaker. It is comprised of a spherical tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. The minute repeater, which lays claim to 7 patents, plays the Westminster melody and four hammers, rather than the usual two, and four gongs. The Gyrotourbillon is another work of art, with its 94 components weighing only 0.4 grams and measuring 8.80mm in diameter, it is the fifth and smallest Gyrotourbillon the maison has produced. The perpetual calendar requires no manual adjustment until the year 2,100 and can be set forward or backwards without risk of damaging the components. Beyond the incredible technical prowess of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184, the viscerals of this piece are quintessentially Jaeger-LeCoultre, with soft curves, exquisite finishings and textures found throughout.


Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000






  • Brand: Ulysse Nardin

  • Model: Freak X Gumball 3000

  • Reference: 2303-270LE-2A-GUM/3A

  • Case: 43mm

  • Case Material: Carbonium

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Movement: Calibre UN-230

  • Frequency: 3 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 72 hours

  • Price: Price on request (Limited to 150 pieces)


To celebrate the 25th Gumball 3000, where over a journey of 3,000 miles collectors and enthusiasts come together to celebrate all this motoring, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled its commemorative piece in the Freak X Gumball 3000. Clad in black DLC-titanium with side parts of the case made from carbonium, the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000's key focal point is, of course, that open flying carousel movement rotating around the dial on its own axis. Pops of orange adorn the piece, matching the orange rubber strap made by Delugs. The sapphire caseback features the Gumball 3000 insignia, while a plate on the side of the case displays the watch's unique number x/150.


Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition






  • Brand: Bell & Ross

  • Model: BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition

  • Reference: BR03A-HRZ-CE

  • Case: 41mm x 10.60mm

  • Case Material: Ceramic

  • Water Resistance: 100m

  • Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.327 (Sellita SW300-1 base)

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 54 hours

  • Price: AUD6,900 (Limited to 999 pieces)


From Bell & Ross is the BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition, bringing the vibe sitting in an aircraft cockpit to your wrist. The Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition is part of the brand’s Flight Instrument series, inspired by aviation tools. With a 41mm square black ceramic case, it mimics an artificial horizon used by pilots. The dial features a rotating disc split between blue and black, representing sky and ground, while a red line on the sapphire crystal marks the horizon. It runs on the BR-CAL.327 automatic movement, offering a 54-hour power reserve. Limited to 999 pieces, it’s priced at AUD6,900.


Girard-Perregaux's Japan 'Aiiro' Editions






Girard-Perregaux celebrates the 160th anniversary of Swiss-Japanese diplomatic ties with two limited-edition Laureato models. Each is capped at 100 pieces, featuring indigo blue dials—a nod to Japan's historical Aiiro dye. The Laureato 42mm boasts a Grand Feu enamel dial and automatic GP1800 movement, while the Laureato Chronograph 42mm in titanium features a Clous de Paris pattern and GP3300 movement. These watches honor François Perregaux, a pioneer who forged the brand's long-standing relationship with Japan, dating back to 1860 when he set up an office in Yokohama.


Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph






  • Brand: Seiko

  • Model: Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph

  • Reference: SRQ051/SRQ053

  • Case: 42mm

  • Case Material: Stainless steel

  • Water Resistance: 100m

  • Movement: Calibre 8R48

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

  • Price: AUD3,900


Seiko unveiled two new Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph models last week. Both models draw inspiration from the original Speedtimer chronograph that was introduced to the world in the early 1970s, while incorporating Seiko's modern movement and design technologies. What we have is a piece that marries the worlds of neo-vintage and modern in a very neat, very pleasing package. The panda-style dial is the highlight of the Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph, as is the multi-row stainless steel bracelet (I suppose Seiko's take on the infamous Jubilee bracelet). The Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph is powered by the Calibre 8R48, an automatic movement that beats at 4 Hz and has a power reserve of a respectable 45 hours.


Celebrating The Beauty Of Tokyo's Kameido Region With New King Seiko Models






  • Brand: Seiko

  • Model: King Seiko

  • Reference: SJE103J/SJE105J/SJE107J

  • Case: 38.60mm

  • Case Material: Stainless steel

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Movement: Calibre 6L35

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

  • Price: AUD5,200


Seiko also announced the release of three special pieces in its King Seiko collection. References SJE103J, SJE105J and SJE107J join the expanding collection to symbolise the beauty of Tokyo's Kameido area. These models feature ukiyo-e prints from the Edo Period, with unique Japanese patterns and colour graduations, reflective of the region. A red, blue and pink-purple dialled model enters the fore, with each piece being powered by the Calibre 6L35 automatic movement.

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