A dress watch should be a few things. Thin, elegant, inconspicuous and reserved. In its own right, a dress watch should work to compliment, not deter attention from a beautifully tailored suit. They should be delicate, a reflection of finesse, simplistic in appearance, yet entirely representative of the maison who so painstakingly created it. 

In my mind, the ideal dress watch should entail a dark dial, encased in precious metal that is proportionally small, executed with the ideals of restraint -- where less is indeed more -- expressively shown throughout.

Finding the best of the best is a trying task, but it's one whose challenge I enjoyed immensely. Be it the timeless nature of the Calatrava to the effervescent enthusiasm of the Altiplano, the juxtadisposed beauty of the Patrimony or the divine nature of the Classique, here are some of the finest dress watches I could find whose inherent tenets aligned with my subjective notion of the quote-unquote perfect dress watch.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds

The Master Ultra Thin was a close candidate, but the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds just edged it for the simple fact that this piece is, in a word, legendary. The Reverso in almost any iteration is a completely viable choice for the ultimate dress watch, but in its pink gold guise, the Tribute Monoface Small Seconds absolutely wins it for me. Sumptuous lines, a distinct air of nonchalance and a design of which many a watchmaking maison wished they had in their catalogue. 

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding

With Vacheron Constantin, you're really spoiled for choice. Traditionnelle, Patrimony, Historiques, even the Malte collections. They're all rather emblematic of the quintessential classic dress watch. My pick of the lot is the Patrimony Manual-Winding. Distinctly different, it pairs a super thin pink gold case with a clean and simple blue dial, complimented by pink gold hour markers and stick hands -- my favourite. 

Patek Philippe 5227G Calatrava

I was torn between this and the new 6196P-001 that was just released at Watches and Wonders 2025, but ultimately the 5227G won it for me for a few key reasons. The first is the subtle white gold case. The second is the lovely deep black lacquered dial. And the third is the very cool officer style hinged caseback. The 5227G is perhaps not the most talked about or nuanced Calatrava models, but as far as a modern reference emanating a nostalgic take on the quote-unquote quintessential dress watch, this does it for me. And in bucket loads.

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

Like Patek Philippe, when it comes to beautiful dress watches, options are aplenty with A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxonia Thin in white gold with that specked blue dial made of silver, slender hands and stick hour markers make for a quietly scintillating package. Finishing is out of this world, and Lange being Lange, every facet of the Saxonia Thin has been executed with almost painstaking meticulousness. A sumptuous endeavour of balance and proportions, the Saxonia Thin is just divine.

Rolex 1908

The 1908 propelled Rolex into 21st century luxury dress watchmaking, and as we bid farewell to the endearing Cellini collection, so too did we welcome another first for Rolex -- open sapphire casebacks. The 1908 is yet to see its most refined version, and being the most youthful dress watch on this list, there is ample room for improvement. But in its more current form, the 1908 is still a stellar prospect, and in particular with its black dial yellow gold case guise, does enough to maintain a certain stature while still flying below the radar. 

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic

Piaget's Altiplano Ultimate Automatic is almost -- almost -- too much. It walks the very fine line of being too austere, too loud and too obvious. I say almost with the utmost delicacy, because the balancing act of walking that finer-than-fine tight rope is one that Piaget has a tendency to excel at. The Altiplano Ultimate Automatic, paired with a rose gold case and a blue inverted dial is, in a word, superb. It marries the worlds of thinness, beauty and discreteness wonderfully well, while maintaining an aesthetic that is, ultimately, all Piaget. 

Breguet Classique 5177

Released as a novelty late last year, the Breguet Classique 5177 is an intriguing and rather rudimentary dress watch proposition. It combines all of the tenets that I would look for in a dress watch. Precious metal case, simple looking dial, an intricately detailed movement and a certain air of horological supremacy and mystique. A momentously beautiful timepiece from one of my favourite watchmakers.

Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate

I truly believe that the prowess of the Villeret collection is almost criminally underrated and overlooked. In the world dominated by Calatravas, Traditionnelles, Patrimonies and Saxonias, the VIlleret quietly yet confidently plods along, instilling itself as a beautifully considerable alternative. This particular model, the Villeret Ultraplate, is exceptionally beautiful and represents some of the finest, most traditional watchmaking from the haus of Blancpain.

Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV

Chopard's L.U.C collection has experienced a sort of renaissance period in the last half-decade, and the hyper-technical L.U.C Quattro Mark IV is perhaps one of the best representations of the collection's innate qualities and unquestionable beauty. All in all, a very much deserved chef's kiss.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

Last but most certainly not least is the Cartier Tank Louis Cartier. This is a watch I've harped on for a fair while now, and as it stands it remains my most favourite Cartier there is. The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier is an architectural masterpiece, and in this particular configuration of a yellow gold case, a black lacquer dial and the iconic beaded sapphire set crown make for one of the most discreet and most beautiful watches, period.