You've been bitten by the bug, fallen head first into the rabbit hole, put together a decent chunk of coin and now you're in the hunt for your first luxury watch. Congratulations! The deep dive into the world of watches, especially as you edge closer and into that revered five-figure territory is as exciting as it is scary. Options are absolutely aplenty, and you can build a serious collection of quality luxury watches in this pricing segment.
Not that there is anything wrong with these watchmakers, and I cover them extensively in a few articles like this one here, but stepping up from the likes of Seiko, Tissot and Hamilton opens the door to a seemingly endless assortment of interesting luxury watches to start your collection with.
Happy reading and if you think I've left anything out feel free to leave a comment, send me an email or shoot me a DM on Instagram.
Rolex Submariner
Brand: Rolex
Model:Â Submariner
Reference:Â 124060
Case: 41mm
Case Material: Oystersteel
Dial: Black
Water Resistance:Â 300m
Movement: Calibre 3230
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Oystersteel
The Rolex Submariner was my personal entry point into the world of luxury watches, so as such it definitely carries a certain subjective bias. Not the cheapest entry point, but perhaps, again in my own super partisan opinion, the best luxury watch to start a collection.
Rolex Explorer 40
Brand: Rolex
Model:Â Explorer 40
Reference:Â 225270
Case: 40mm
Case Material: Oystersteel
Dial: Black
Water Resistance:Â 100m
Movement: Calibre 3230
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Oystersteel
The king of the go-anywhere-do-anything luxury watches, the Rolex Explorer 40 (or for those of you with smaller wrists, it comes in a 36mm guise), is in every sense of the word, brilliant. Subtle, stealthy and steeped in history and tradition, the Explorer 40 is perhaps the connoisseur's choice.
Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA211
Brand: Grand Seiko
Model:Â Heritage
Reference:Â SBGA211
Case: 41mm x 12.50mm
Case Material: Titanium
Dial: White
Water Resistance:Â 100m
Movement: Calibre 9R65
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, date
Frequency:Â Spring Drive
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Titanium
From the other side of the pond is the incredible Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA211, aka the Snowflake, Anyone that has seen this in action can testify to at least two things. The first is that beautiful textured dial, Ã la Snowflake. And the second is that super smooth sweeping seconds hand, excuse the inadvertent alliteration. A beautiful proposition whether it be your entry point into luxury watch collecting or something to compliment your growing collection.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
Brand: Omega
Model:Â Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
Reference:Â 310.30.42.50.01.001
Case: 42mm x 13.20mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial: Black
Water Resistance:Â 50m
Movement: Omega 3861
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Frequency:Â 3.5 Hz
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Strap: Stainless steelÂ
Like the Rolex Submariner, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is in a league of its own and stands head and shoulders above a lot of other options in this list. A sort of if-you-know-you-know watch, the good old Speedy is the perfect entry point into luxury watch collecting, especially for something looking to add a complication into the mix of things.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m
Brand: Omega
Model:Â Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m
Reference:Â 220.10.41.21.01.002
Case: 41mm x 13.40mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial: Black
Water Resistance:Â 150m
Movement: Omega 8900
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Frequency: 3.5 Hz
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Stainless steel
Like for like the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m can be compared to the Rolex Explorer 40 in more ways than one, sans the date window. Super subtle, remarkably well put together and boasting master chronometer status, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m is an excellent way to open your luxury watch collecting account.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m
Brand: Omega
Model:Â Seamaster Diver 300m
Reference:Â 210.32.42.20.01.001
Case: 42mm x 13.60mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial: Black
Water Resistance:Â 300m
Movement: Omega 8800
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Frequency:Â 3.5 Hz
Power Reserve: 55 hours
Strap: Rubber
Like the Speedmaster and the Aqua Terra, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m is another wonderful consideration for your first luxury watch. Durable, comfortable and, like the Aqua Terra, ridiculously well made, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m is a solid all rounder that unfortunately does lose some functionality points due to its super casual sporty look.
Tudor Black Bay
Brand: Tudor
Model:Â Black Bay
Reference:Â M7941A1ANU-0003
Case: 41mm x 13.60mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial: Black
Water Resistance:Â 200m
Movement: MT5602-U
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Strap: Stainless steel
The new Tudor Black Bay is the most economical way to start your luxury watch collecting journey. Available on either a 5-link, 3-link or rubber strap, the Tudor Black Bay is supreme any which way you look at it.
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41
Brand: Breitling
Model:Â Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41
Reference:Â AB0139241C1P1
Case: 41mm x 13.60mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial: Blue
Water Resistance:Â 30m
Movement: Breitling 01
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Strap: Stainless steel
With the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 you get a genuine icon of watchmaking, albeit in a far smaller package. I rather like the dark blue-on-black look of the dial, broken up by the red chronograph seconds hand and some text on the rehaut. Different but rather cool.
IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph
Brand: IWC
Model:Â Pilot's Watch Chronograph
Reference:Â IW378001
Case: 43mm x 14.80mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial: Black
Water Resistance:Â 100m
Movement: Calibre 69385
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, day, date
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 46 hours
Strap: Leather
From IWC is the Pilot's Watch Chronograph. There were so many options, but I kept coming back to the IW378001. For the money you get a day-date and a chronograph in a wearable package that you can dress up or down. A serious bit of kit for your first luxury watch, for sure.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic
Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Model:Â Polaris Automatic
Reference:Â Q9008471
Case: 41mm x 11.20mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial: Black
Water Resistance:Â 100m
Movement: Calibre 898
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap: Leather
From the perspective of genuinely sound watchmaking, I had to go down the route of the watchmakers' watchmaker with the Polaris Automatic. Not the most affordable option on this list, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic is an interesting step into a world of some very serious watchmaking, for those so inclined in going that way for their first luxury watch.
Panerai Submersible PAM02973
Brand: Panerai
Model:Â Submersible PAM02973
Reference:Â PAM02973
Case: 42mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial: Black
Water Resistance:Â 300m
Movement: P.900
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Rubber
The ever ready Panerai Submersible PAM02973 is an interesting piece to consider, especially if you think you need something durable and ready to battle the elements with. A decent watch to open your luxury watch collecting journey with.
Cartier Santos De Cartier
Brand: Cartier
Model:Â Santos De Cartier
Reference:Â WSSA0061
Case: 35.10mm x 8.83mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial: Green
Water Resistance:Â 100m
Movement: 1847 MC
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Strap: Stainless steel
Last, but certainly not least, is the Cartier Santos De Cartier. This might not be too high a consideration, especially for those who aren't in the watch community, but the Cartier Santos De Cartier is absolutely brilliant and walks the fine line between a dress watch, a daily driver and a solid weekender.
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