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BRELLUM Swiss Watchmaking: Pandas and Manufacture Movements

BRELLUM Swiss Watchmaking is no stranger to the team here at Haulogerie. Throwback to the beginning of the year when we featured their entire Duobox collection. In that analysis, we spoke about the Duobox collection, ad nauseam mind you, like it was a revelatory line of watches from what I personally consider to be something similar to that of a micro-brand. And I still feel the same way. So, when BRELLUM came knocking and told me about a new venture, I had absolutely no hesitation in featuring them again on our platform.

First, we have a brand-new piece to add to the already very varied Duobox collection. This new piece comes in the form of the Duobox Pandial in black DLC, with either a domed silver-white dial or a domed deep black dial. Both dials, mind you, are absolutely fantastic and really work well within that stainless-steel black DLC coated 43mm wide case. The tri-register sub-dial vertically inclined layout is highly legible, and I love that the date window has been placed within the sub-dial at 6 o’clock, very typical of the BR-750-1 movement (which is actually a base Valjoux calibre, more of that in a second).

The case works so well on so many different levels. For starters, at 43mm in diameter whilst large, it still fits the bill of a very wearable watch, easy to dress up or to wear casually with a pair of shorts and a t-shirt. Both dial options are very appealing to me too, and to be quite honest with you, I feel torn between the two. The silver-white dial is fresh, clean and has an air of playfulness, while the black dial is a bit more abrupt, menacing-looking and has an air of seriousness to it. The mushroom pushers, exposed crown and twisted lugs finish off an aesthetic ensemble that appeals to me greatly, and as far as a modern chronograph that can be worn every day goes, the BRELLUM Duobox Pandial black DLC is up there with the best of them.

So, thus far we’ve come to the conclusion that, at the very least from a visceral point of view, the Duobox Pandial black DLC is a fairly good watch. The movement powering the piece is no slump, however. The Duobox Pandial black DLC is powered by the Caliber BR-750-1 movement, which is a base Valjoux automatic movement. BRELLUM Swiss Watchmaking have tended to the movement extensively, and with the extra detailing the mechanism has also been subjected to the rigors of chronometer testing, passing the requirements and enabling it to be called a genuine COSC certified chronometer.

A good watch the Duobox Pandial black DLC certainly is. It comes on a black Nebur Tec strap with a black DLC coated stainless-steel deploying buckle and a rubber Nato strap and costs 2590CHF.

The next piece is arguably more interesting, more enticing for the seasoned collector, and incorporates Brellum’s very own in-house manufactured movement. But more on that later. The Brellum Wyvern Manufacture comes in two distinct models, one with an anthracite dial with opaline and sunshine patter finishing, while the other model features a white dial with opaline finishing. Both pieces have the exact same layout. A centre stack of hands depicting the passing hours, minutes and seconds, as well as a 5-day power reserve indicator sitting between 4 and 6 o’clock.

The stainless-steel case sits at 42.50mm in diameter and 13mm in thickness (including the domed crystal). Whilst this may seem quite large for a time-only piece, bear in mind the very clean nature of the dial. There’s a lot of real estate spread across that dial, and with respect to the varying finishing types used, I do believe that the overall look of the dial does well to reduce the perceived size of the case.

The WYVERN Manufacture is powered by the in-house manufactured BR-18 calibre. This is a movement that BRELLUM designed and built over a period of 18-months, and it is the star of the show. The BR-18 calibre is a manually wound movement that features double barrels, more than capable of holding its 120-hour power reserve rating. The BR-18 is a COSC certified movement and, depending on the model you choose (either the LE.1 with its anthracite dial or the LE.2 with its white opalin dial), you get a different version of the BR-18 movement.

The LE.1 has a rhodium coated movement with blued screws, vertical Geneva stripes, a matte opaline balance wheel bridge and polished bevels. The LE.2’s movement features the same finishing techniques, however this time it has a rose-gold coating movement with steel screws and horizontal Geneva stripes (looking very similar to the movement inside of F. P. Journe’s Chronomètre Bleu). The BR-18 movement is impeccable, and I for one am very impressed with its execution and integration into the WYVERN Manufacture.

BRELLUM Swiss Watchmaking’s latest venture, the WYVERN Manufacture is a wonderful little mechanical machine, and each model is made in a very limited run of only 23-pieces, with each piece costing 3,990CHF (not including tax). Both the LE.1 and the LE.2 is available for order now, with delivery expected to be by this Christmas.

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