The New York Watch Auction: XIII - Stand Outs
The upcoming New York Watch Auction: XIII by Phillips is headlined by none other than Francis Ford Coppola’s very own F. P. Journe FFC Prototype, a piece of significance both for its watchmaking and its esteemed provenance. Alongside the FFC, Mr. Coppola’s Chronomètre à Resonance features alongside seven other timepieces from the filmmakers collection. Beyond the glitz and glamour of Hollywood’s finest comes the glitz and glamour of horology’s finest, with two of the finest hand-made watches made by arguably one of the best watchmakers to ever have lived in the Philippe Dufour Simplicity and Duality, both headlining on December 6 and 7 at 432 Park Avenue, New York.
There are 146 lots in total, and where much of the talk will be around the FFC Prototype and other timepieces curated from Francis Ford Coppola’s collection, there are still an abundance of incredible watches that are more than deserving of their time in the spotlight.
In no particular order, here are my stand out pieces featuring at the New York Watch Auction: XIII.
Patek Philippe 3448 Perpetual Calendar “Padellone”
The super special 3448 Perpetual Calendar “Padellone” lives rent-free in my mind. It’s a piece that holds a special place in my heart and encapsulates most of which I love about Patek Philippe. Clean, angular lines. Beautiful symmetry. A stately, bold aura that is both subtle and domineering. One of the best Pateks ever, period.
Estimate: $70,000 - $140,000
Audemars Piguet 5037PT
Ań archival piece, the obscure 5037PT from Audemars Piguet bares the hallmarks of a bygone era where design, creativity and an eye for details were paramount. The sculptured case and folded lugs are a sight to behold, while the creamy patinated dial, baton hands and dagger hour markers with even applied numerals round off what is a very interesting package. The 5037PT is a touch on the small side and with an unmarked white gold bracelet against its platinum case, I suppose there are more than a few question marks which makes the low estimate somewhat justified.
Estimate : $5,000 - $10,000
Rolex Day-Date 18238
A scintillating display of gold, diamonds and rubies open the show to the late-80s produced reference 18238. The illustrious “Presidential” walks the fine line of pure excess and restrained opulence. At 36mm, its size is as diminutive as is its stature as tasteful bling. In other words, I would be all over it. And then some. A low estimate that is just waiting to be blown out of the water.
Estimate: $15,000 - $30,000
Cartier Tank Asymétrique “Temple Edition”
The off-catalogue Tank Asymétrique “Temple Edition” reference CRWHTA0023 is an expression of pioneering design that is free of brazen restraints. The burguny-lacquered indexes and numerals pair beautifully with the polished platinum case. The Asymétrique, in any of its many iterations, has always been my most favourite Cartier, with the CRWHTA0023 topping that list. The cherry on top — that diamond-encrusted cabochon crown.
Estimate: $40,000 - $80,000
F. P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance “Souscription No. 17”
Initially, the Chronomètre À Résonance “Souscription” was offered to the twenty clients who had subscribed to F. P. Journe’s inaugural Tourbillon Souverain, and basically providing the financial foundation for the independent maison. Numbered between 1-20, the Chronomètre À Résonance “Souscription No. 17” is a celebration of all things Journe. Many consider the Chronomètre À Résonance Journe’s finest work, with this particular “Souscription No. 17” reference being an exemplary example of one of the watchmaker’s most significant work.
Estimate: $600,000 - $1,200,000
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Chronometer
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Chronometer reference E168 from circa 1957 stood out to me for several reasons. The first, its lovely proportions. The second, its genuinely impressive technical features, being anti-magnetic and a confirmed chronometer. And third, I’ve long admired the Geophysic’s aesthetic — simplistic but ultimately purposeful and masking some truly interesting watchmaking.
Estimate: $15,000 - $30,000
Audemars Piguet Pièce Unique 125 Anniversary
Released in 2000 to commemorate Audemars Piguet’s 125th anniversary, the Pièce Unique 125 Anniversary reference 12629OR.O.0029CR.01 boasts a characteristically different case architecture that draws inspiration from a 1953 timepiece, which then inspired the maison to reinvent it in the second [RE]Master timepiece. This is the only 12629 reference in pink gold and sans diamonds, with its uniqueness accentuated by that gorgeous blue guilloché dial and gold Breguet numerals. One for the connoisseurs.
Estimate: $20,000 - $40,000
Patek Philippe 3940J Perpetual Calendar “Doré Dial”
The “Doré Dial” 3940J Perpetual Calendar is perhaps the reference’s most coveted and highly sought after. Aside from the obvious — its visceral beauty — is the history significance, whereby Philippe Stern himself proudly wears the “Doré Dial” 3940 as his own personal watch. The “Doré Dial” boasts a lovely golden pink-hue which was produced during the first and early second series 3940J and 3941J references.
Estimate: $120,000 - $240,000
Patek Philippe 5170G Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.”
The most contemporary timepiece on this list, the Patek Philippe 5170G Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.” perhaps lacks the reverence or comparable significance to other pieces on this list, but its place is more than justified. Firstly, it’s the first chronograph from Patek Philippe with an in-house movement — with a Lemania-based mechanism powering the outgoing 5070 reference. And second, it’s one of only a few stamped by Tiffany & Co. I truly believe that the 5170G has all of the plaudits to be a true collector’s piece in years to come and is rather undervalued given its immensely positive attributes.
Estimate: $40,000 - $80,000
Philippe Dufour Duality “No. 1”
The Duality is to the watch world what the Mona Lisa is to the art world. A true work of art. A masterpiece on the wrist. The proverbial holy grail. This is one of only two known examples of the Duality, of which there are only a claimed ten, such is its complexity to craft (despite Philippe Dufour originally planning to make 25). I think it’s important to note that in June 2024 the other white gold model (No. 3) was sold for $2,056,500. The bonus to owning the No. 1 is that the lucky winner will also walk away with the original press kit and movement renderings, something not often seen.
Estimate: $1,000,000 - $2,000,000
Omega “Tourbillon 30 I”
One of only seven observatory chronometer tourbillons cased in 1987, the Tourbillon 30 I is a peculiar piece of Omega history that really caught my eye. For starters, that beautiful yellow gold case. Then the tourbillon carriage with a rotation rate of 7.5 minutes (as opposed to the usual 60 seconds). Then the fact that these were made as part of a competition and a means to research chronometry. And where the movement may look rather industrial in its finishing, I find it looks charmingly purposeful.
Estimate: $60,000 - $120,000
Rolex Oyster Chronograph Dato-Compax “Jean-Claude Killy”
The “Jean-Claude Killy” is a wonderful capsule of time from Rolex’s archival years. A triple calendar paired with a chronograph from Rolex may seem obscure, but from the late 40s to the early 60s, these references were all the rage. Named after three-time French Olympic ski champion and ensuing Rolex ambassador, the “Jean-Claude Killy” is a fantastic example of what Rolex was producing mid-century.
Estimate: $120,000 - $240,000
Patek Philippe 130 Chronograph
The Valjoux 13 powered 130 Chronograph comes from a time when watchmaking had a certain purity about it. From its two-tone sector dial, yellow gold case and blued chronograph hands, the 130 Chronograph holds all of the nostalgic traits from a traditional 1940s chronograph. The tachymeter and minute tracks are in hard enamel and sit raised above the dial, while the cherry on top is the vintage “Patek Philippe & Co Genève” signature which the maison moved away from by the end of the 1940s.
Estimate: $40,000 - $80,000
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