MR PORTER x Haulogerie: Picks of the Week #3
We've got a pretty stacked line up in the third instalment of our weekly series, MR PORTER Picks of the Week. From IWC's iconic Portugieser Perpetual Calendar to a classical Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin, all the way to HYT's modern H1.0 and everything in between, we've got something for everyone. Enjoy!
You can also check out last week's selection here.
And you can check out all of this week's selection on The Haulogerium.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds
Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds is a beautiful timepiece that really embodies the quintessence of a classical dress piece. With a focus on clarity, symmetry and legibility, the 39mm Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds is infinitely more complex than it appears, and with 223 components you can imagine how. The Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds looks the complete paradox to its innate complexities -- just another reason why I hold it in such high regard.
IWC Big Pilot's Heritage Bronze
I was fortunate enough to handle the Big Pilot's Heritage Bronze, and let me tell you it left a lasting impression. Featuring the Big Pilot's iconic enlarged crown, bold look and legible dial, the Big Pilot's Heritage Bronze measures a very prolific 46mm across. Being constructed in bronze, the Big Pilot's Heritage Bronze is a heavy one, but don't let that deter you. Its heft is just one of its many appealing factors. Limited to only 1,500 pieces, the Big Pilot's Heritage Bronze is a definite winner.
Panerai Submersible Automatic Goldtech
Panerai's PAM00974 features a 42mm wide Goldtech case, which combines copper and platinum to give it a red colour and to prevent oxidation. It features a black ceramic bezel, an expansive and legible dial, along with Panerai's iconic crown-guard system. I feel that Panerai has been given a new lease on life, and the Submersible Automatic Goldtech is a prime example of the manufacturer's ability to reinvent itself while still keeping within its traditional bounds.
Fitted with two liquids, one green and one transparent, that indicates the hour by being pushed through the capillary reservoir by multi-layered wire bellows, you'd be forgiven in thinking that the H1.0 was the engine of some high performance car. But no, this is a watch whose movement took HYT 15 years to develop. With an openworked dial that looks like the engine bar of a supercar, the H1.0 is an incredible feat of horology and engineering.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar
Featuring a solid 18k rose gold care offset by a creamy white dial, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar walks the fine line between being too much and being just enough. With one of the most legible perpetual calendar dials around, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar marries the worlds of boldness, luxury, versatility and tradition in a package that is undeniably beautiful.
IWC Portugieser 150 Years Limited Edition Chronograph
For the first time ever, the iconic IWC Portugieser receives an in-house movement. Having handled this piece upon its release, I can personally attest to its quality and craftsmanship. The Portugieser 150 Years Limited Edition Chronograph's navy blue dial contrasts wonderfully with the cold look of the 41mm stainless steel case, and the in-house 69355 automatic chronograph with its 194 parts are entirely visible through the open sapphire caseback.
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
Think of a perpetual calendar, and you'd be hard pressed to miss IWC's Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. In my opinion, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar is the quintessential perpetual calendar timepiece. A clean, simple and highly legible aesthetic combined with a hefty 44.20mm white gold case makes for a supremely appealing package. The deep midnight blue dial rounds off what is altogether one of IWC's crowning kings.
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X
Crafted in 44mm of titanium, the Big Crown ProPilot X is a revelation, showcasing Oris' watchmaking capabilities. In an ode to traditional Swiss design, Oris has opted to minimise the unnecessary. Throughout the openworked movement, you will be edges and bridges that have been left un-chamfered or bevelled, with a hollowed out barrel displaying the mainspring. This oversimplification of finishings is a stark contrast to the complex nature of the Big Crown ProPilot X and its 10-day power reserve.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon
From one of the pillars of watchmaking is one of the manufacturer's most iconic and prolific watches, the incredible Traditionnelle Tourbillon. A compelling package that couples an icon of horological complications with beautiful details, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon is undoubtedly one of Vacheron Constantin's crowning jewels. This particular example is available in 18k pink gold and comes on a brown alligator leather strap.
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition Chronograph
Paying tribute to the Minerva pocket watch, the 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition Chronograph features a stunning bronze case, army-green dial and the MB 25.11 automatic chronograph, which references its 'Geosphere' name. As with all bronze watches, the 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition Chronograph will age differently to its brothers and will develop a patina unique to its wearer and the environments it is most exposed to.
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