Welcome to the first MR PORTER x Haulogerie: Watch Picks of the Week edition of 2022! In this week's instalment, we'll be featuring some incredible watches from IWC, Vacheron Constantin and Panerai. Enjoy!
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar
This Vacheron Constantin watch is stamped with the prestigious hallmark of Geneva - an exclusive certification that proves its outstanding quality. Part of the 'Fiftysix' collection that combines modern and archival design elements, it has a polished stainless steel case featuring an exhibition back and is fitted with a supple dark-grey alligator strap. The silvered dial showcases the complications unique to the internal calibre 2460 QCL/1 movement - day, date, month and moon-phase indicators.
IWC Big Pilot's Watch Spitfire
IWC has manufactured numerous military-spec watches for different branches of the British legions - the 'Big Pilot's Spitfire' reflects that aspect of the house's history, in terms of both rugged aesthetic and technical reliability, legibility and precision. This reference features the striking conical crown in an ergonomic 43-millimetre titanium case, which is both polished and then sandblasted. The blue dial is inspired by historical observation watches, with the hands, numerals and indices placed for clear and instant reading. Inside is the in-house 82100 calibre, while a soft-iron inner case protects the movement from the effects of magnetic fields.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph
Vacheron Constantin chose the Maltese cross as its logo back in 1880, and it's the Maison's sporty 'Overseas' models that truly embody the symbol - both in terms of mechanical application and through the collection's design language. This 18-karat pink gold chronograph features the emblem on not just the dial, buckle, crown and inner workings of the calibre 5200 movement, but on the bezel, too, which is notched to resemble the arrowheads. The interchangeable alligator and rubber straps can easily be swapped, making this classic piece suitable for any dress code.
IWC Aquatimer Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau
IWC has been manufacturing professional diving watches for almost 50 years. This 'Expedition Jacques-Yves Costeau' chronograph references the Swiss watchmaker’s first style, released in 1967, but pays homage to the titular ‘Le Commandant', whose profile is engraved on the case back. Evolving to meet the demands of 21st century divers, this stopwatch-enabled piece is constructed with an externally operated internal rotating bezel with a SafeDive locking system and push-buttons that can be activated underwater, even at 300m.
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM00742
While visually streamlined, Panerai's latest iteration of the 'Luminor' watch offers an impressive amount of functionality, all of which is simple to glean, at that. With time and date functions to the front, the perpetual calendar is moved to the exhibition back, and accounts for leap years, too. A GMT hand for tracking dual time zones niftly hides under the hour hand until needed, while a sub-dial indicates day and night. It's engineered from Goldtech™, which is extremely durable and averse to oxidisation.
Hermès Slim Titane Automatic
Hermès Timepieces' 'Slim Titane' watch is so elegant in its simplicity - the sleek dark-grey dial features only cutout Arabic numerals and a second sub-dial. It's powered by a slender H1950 automatic movement that's visible through the sapphire glass crystal caseback and fitted with an alligator strap with an orange interior that peeks through.
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