MR PORTER x Haulogerie: Watch Picks of the Week #67
What better way to start your week than with another MR PORTER x Haulogerie: Watch Picks of the Week segment? In this week's round-up we'll be covering a range of incredible timepieces, including models from Roger Dubuis, IWC and Panerai. Enjoy!
You can check out last week's picks here.
And don't forget to head to The Haulogerium for our specially curated content.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur 45 Double Flying Tourbillon
Extreme technical ingenuity is the creed of Roger Dubuis. With a substantial 45mm EON gold case, this limited edition iteration of the 'Excalibur' watch showcases the feat of the 108-SQ double flying tourbillon calibre with a skeletonised dial, while chamfered edges sharpen the graphic lines of the architecture. Equally impressive in performance as in visuals, it's certified with the Poinçon de Genève, whose seal takes 360 hours of engraving alone to effect.
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01661
Panerai's distinguished 'Luminor' collection dates back to 1949, when the house introduced a revolutionary new luminous material for its watches, allowing clarity in any light condition. This 'Marina' edition is crafted with a hardy Carbotech™ case that feels surprisingly lightweight on the wrist and a black Sandwich™ dial that gives the high-visibility numerals and markers an engraved appearance. It's powered by a robust Swiss-made P.9010 calibre movement and has a water-resistant Sportech™ strap traced with blue stitching to complement the markers.
IWC Big Pilot's Big Date Spitfire ‘Mission Accomplished’ Limited Edition
Created in a limited edition run of just 500 timepieces, this version of IWC's 'Big Pilot's' watch celebrates a "Mission Accomplished" of "The Longest Flight". In 2019, pilots Messrs Matt Jones and Steve Boultbee Brooks took a record-breaking 27,000-mile journey around the world in a 76-year-old Vickers Supermarine Spitfire. Memorialising the completion of the trip, it's crafted with a bronze case that will develop its own unique patina over time and has an army-green dial with a large date window and small second sub-dial. It's powered by a Swiss-made IWC-manufactured calibre 59235 hand-wound movement with an impressive 192-hour power reserve that's visible through the case back.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Automatic
Chopard spent three years developing the 96.12-L calibre for its 'L.U.C' watch. Making it one of the brand's slimmest models, it has a 3mm movement and features a 22-carat gold micro-rotor. The 'S' in 'XPS' refers to the small seconds counter at 6 o'clock, which is used to certify the accuracy of its movement for COSC-approval. Crafted from 18-karat rose gold, the case contains a galvanic grey dial with a satin-brushed sunburst finish and simple Arabic numerals and markers. The exhibition case back showcases the self-winding movement, which holds an impressive 65-hour power reserve, thanks to the brand's Chopard Twin Technology, bolstered by dual-stacked barrels.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve De Marche
Crafted at the Le Sentier workshop in Switzerland's Vallée de Joux, Jaeger-LeCoultre's watches are subject to 1,000 hours of rigorous testing until the brand's quality controllers are satisfied - it's this attention to detail that's earned the Maison the prestigious title of 'The Watchmaker of Watchmakers'. This 'Master Ultra Thin Réserve De Marche' model has an impressively slim case cast from polished stainless steel. The silvered-grey dial features refined dauphine hands that complement the angular indices, along with date and power reserve indicators, all the while maintaining a neat, simplistic appearance. You'll find that the leather-backed alligator strap grows increasingly supple with wear.
Bell & Ross BR V3-94 R.S.20 Limited Edition Chronograph
In partnership with the Renault F1 team, Bell & Ross' 'BR V3-94 R.S.20' racing watch is a limited edition with only 999 pieces in production. Allusions to the art of motorsport are clear in the typography, apertures and chequerboard adorning the dial, while a distinct reference to the R.S.2027 concept car's palette is made by offsetting the stainless steel with the team's signature black and yellow. Under the bonnet, a high-octane chronograph engine is ticking over at 28,800 vibrations per hour, based on Switzerland’s own turbocharged powerhouse, the ETA 2894-2.
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