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Watches Of The Week: 01/07/2024 - 07/07/2024

Welcome back to your go to retrospective look at all of the happenings in the watch world over past even days in the next Watches Of The Week segment. Last week was filled with an exciting assortment of new watches with releases from Tudor, Audemars Piguet, Romain Gauthier Hermès and Zenith headlining the week that was.

Happy reading and have a fantastic week ahead.

Zenith DEFY Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton

  • Brand: Zenith

  • Model: DEFY Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton

  • Reference: 49.9301.3620/79.I001

  • Case: 41mm x 11.60mm

  • Case Material: Ceramic

  • Water Resistance: 100m

  • Movement: El Primero 3620 SK

  • Frequency: 5 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 60 hours

  • Price: CHF16,900

The new DEFY Skyline Skeleton introduces a white ceramic exterior, a first for the collection, combining an open movement and dial with a durable, scratch-resistant case featuring alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces. This 10 ATM water-resistant watch is ideal for summer activities. Its intense blue open dial and skeleton movement complement the white ceramic exterior, showcasing ZENITH's four-pointed star motif. The El Primero 3620 SK movement, finished in ZENITH’s signature blue, is visible beneath the dial. Unique to this watch is the 1/10th of a second running indicator, which completes a rotation every 10 seconds.

The watch comes with an integrated white ceramic bracelet and a matching white patterned rubber strap, easily interchangeable without tools. Powered by the El Primero 3620 SK automatic high-frequency skeleton calibre, it features a 1/10th of a second indicator, a 55-hour power reserve, and a stop-second mechanism for precise time-setting. The DEFY Skyline Skeleton in White Ceramic is available in limited quantities at ZENITH boutiques and authorized retailers worldwide.

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Blue

  • Brand: Tudor

  • Model: Black Bay Ceramic Blue

  • Reference: 79210CNU

  • Case: 41mm x 14.40mm

  • Case Material: Ceramic

  • Water Resistance: 200m

  • Movement: MT5602-1U

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 70 hours

  • Price: AUD7,600

In early 2024, Tudor announced its return to motorsport and introduced a special edition of the Black Bay Ceramic “Blue,” designed for the new Formula 1 team Visa Cash App RB. This watch, now available to the public, features a ceramic case and a blue dial that echoes the team’s racing colors. The domed dial has applied hour markers and Tudor's signature “Snowflake” hands, both bordered in black and coated with X1 Super-LumiNova for excellent readability in low light.

The Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” is powered by the manufacture caliber MT5602-1U, a mechanical self-winding movement certified by COSC and meeting the stringent METAS “Master Chronometer” standards. It includes a silicon balance spring and offers a 70-hour power reserve. The robust and precise movement features a variable inertia balance wheel fixed by a bridge and an open-worked tungsten rotor with radial laser decoration. The watch comes with a hybrid leather and rubber strap with blue stitching and a black PVD-coated stainless steel folding clasp, as well as a black NATO strap with a blue center stripe and a matching stainless steel pin buckle.

Audemars Piguet's New Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Models

  • Brand: Audemars Piguet

  • Model: Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

  • Reference: 15407BA; 15407ST; 15416CE

  • Case: 41mm x 10.10mm; 41mm x 9.90mm; 41mm x 9.70mm

  • Case Material: Yellow gold; Stainless steel; Black ceramic

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Movement: Calibre 3132

  • Frequency: 3 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 45 hours

  • Price: CHF88,000; CHF66,500; CHF88,000 (Limited to 150 pieces)

Audemars Piguet introduces three new references of the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in 41 mm, crafted in stainless steel, black ceramic, and 18-carat yellow gold. These models showcase the self-winding Calibre 3132, with openworked architecture highlighting the artisans' skill. The steel and ceramic versions feature a pink-gold-toned movement, enhancing light play and adding warmth. The case and bracelet exhibit the collection's signature polished and satin-brushed finishes, emphasizing the Royal Oak's geometric design. Pink gold hexagonal screws on the bezel complement the movement's hue, with white gold hour markers and blackened rhodium markers for readability. The black ceramic version is limited to 150 pieces.

The yellow gold model combines the bright material with an anthracite grey openworked movement, featuring a matching inner bezel with white-printed details. The Calibre 3132, introduced in 2016, includes a patented double balance wheel mechanism for enhanced precision and stability. Visible from both sides, this mechanism offers a rare view of the movement's intricate workings. The openworked bridges and oscillating weight reflect meticulous craftsmanship and advanced production techniques. Audemars Piguet has been perfecting the art of openworking since the 1930s, combining aesthetics and function by removing material to reveal the mechanism without compromising functionality. The Royal Oak collection has evolved over decades, showcasing this refined art in various models and styles, now revitalised with these contemporary 41 mm novelties.

C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition Six

  • Brand: Romain Gauthier

  • Model: C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition Six

  • Reference: -

  • Case: 41mm x 9.55mm

  • Case Material: Titanium

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Movement: In-house

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 60 hours

  • Price: CHF48,000 (Limited to 88 pieces)

The C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition Six introduces a sleek 41mm timepiece crafted from Grade 5 titanium, featuring a distinctive partially open dial that offers a glimpse into its meticulously hand-decorated movement. This limited edition model, complete with a rubber strap, marks a departure from previous designs by allowing the inner workings of the watch to be prominently displayed. Romain Gauthier's emphasis on visibility extends beyond the dial to the case-back, where the intricately finished movement is fully revealed, showcasing the brand's expertise in mechanical artistry.

Romain Gauthier's vision for the Titanium Edition Six emphasizes both technical precision and aesthetic innovation. By strategically opening up the dial, he enhances the watch's sporty yet sophisticated appeal, making the mechanisms, including the seconds mechanism and escapement, easily observable. This design not only accentuates the mechanical prowess of the titanium movement but also enhances the watch's visual impact through contrasts and interplays of light. Limited to just 88 pieces, each engraved with "1 of 88," this edition represents a fusion of craftsmanship and contemporary design, offering collectors a unique blend of technical excellence and artistic expression.

Artya CHORUS Minute Repeater Cathédrale Tourbillon

  • Brand: Artya

  • Model: CHORUS Minute Repeater Cathédrale Tourbillon

  • Reference: -

  • Case: 44mm x 16.14mm

  • Case Material: Titanium and rose gold

  • Water Resistance: -

  • Movement: Cathedral Minute Repeater Tourbillon

  • Frequency: 3 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 90 hours

  • Price: CHF365,000

The ArtyA Cathedral Minute Repeater Tourbillon CHORUS stands out with its unique architectural design, featuring a rectangular case crafted entirely from curved glass. This design not only provides a stunning visual but also creates an unparalleled resonance chamber for the movement's two gongs, enhancing the sound quality. Created in collaboration with Diatheke in Geneva, the case's combination of rose gold and titanium, along with its domed sapphire crystal, further enriches the purity and richness of the repeater's sound. ArtyA, known for its innovative and avant-garde approach, presents this minute repeater watch as both a practical and poetic timepiece, transforming moments into a series of harmonious notes.

The CHORUS pays homage to the roots of horology with a contemporary reinterpretation of the grand complications. Every detail, from the meticulously hand-angled bridges to the precision array of hammers, gongs, and levers, optimizes sound wave propagation. The dial features a multi-layered depth with a stylized chapter ring and a levitating tourbillon, showcasing ArtyA's expertise. Comprising 317 hand-finished components, the movement highlights ArtyA's commitment to quality and innovative decoration techniques. This exceptional watch, blending tradition with innovation, reflects ArtyA's perfectionism and creativity, marking a new chapter in contemporary watchmaking.

Hermès Arceau Grand Tralala brides et mors

  • Brand: Hermès

  • Model: Arceau Grand Tralala brides et mors

  • Reference: -

  • Case: 34mm

  • Case Material: Rose gold (Bezel set with 64 diamonds, crown set with rose-cut diamond)

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Movement: Hermès H1912

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 50 hours

  • Price: USD47,050

The 34 mm case of this watch reinterprets the design of the Grand Tralala silk scarf by French artist Virginie Jamin, paying homage to Hermès' equestrian tradition with colorful bridles and gleaming bits reminiscent of the Royal Hungarian Bodyguard's 19th-century harnesses. Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the Arceau watch features an understated and timeless round shape set on a 'stirrup,' showcasing subtle details. Its rose gold case, adorned with 64 diamonds and a gem-set crown, frames a spangled white lacquered or deep black dial. The Arceau Grand Tralala dial features an intricate interplay of bridles and bits in rose gold and 110 diamonds, with a small bit-shaped seconds hand adding charm. Powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement, visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, the watch is complemented by a smooth chantilly or black alligator strap matching the dial color, epitomizing Hermès' elegance and craftsmanship.

Bianchet's New Hybrid Gold Grande Date and Sport GMT Tourbillon Models

Swiss watchmaker Bianchet introduces the Hybrid Gold edition of the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date and Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT, featuring an innovative blend of 18-carat gold, high-density carbon, and titanium powder. These materials enhance the visual and physical appeal of these meticulously crafted watches. Bianchet combines the luxury of gold with the durability and lightness of carbon fiber, ensuring precision with their signature Tourbillon. The Hybrid Gold edition boasts a gold bezel, crown, and case back with a brushed and polished finish, while the rest of the case is made from Bianchet’s proprietary carbon composite, consisting of 500 compressed layers of carbon fibers infused with titanium powder. The gold crown has a carbon guard for added protection and ergonomic access, making these watches ideal for those who appreciate high-tech materials and expert craftsmanship.

The Flying Tourbillon Grande Date, a tonneau-shaped watch, won the International Temporis Award for Best Startup Watch. It features an in-house skeletonized Flying Tourbillon movement with a big date complication, showcasing the calendar's openwork mechanism. The titanium bridges, designed with the Fibonacci spiral, are hand-beveled, and the caliber operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour with a 90-hour power reserve. The Flying Tourbillon Sport GMT, launched in March 2024, includes a dual-time GMT function with a rotating Earth dome, allowing for easy tracking of two time zones. Both models come with two vulcanized natural rubber straps, are water-resistant up to 10 ATM, and have shock resistance of 5000Gs, making them perfect for both elegant and adventurous wearers.

Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster III

  • Brand: Maurice de Mauriac

  • Model: Rallymaster III

  • Reference: -

  • Case: 39mm x 12mm

  • Case Material: Stainless steel

  • Water Resistance: 100m

  • Movement: Landeron 24

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 40 hours

  • Price: CHF2,200 (Limited to 100 pieces)

Maurice de Mauriac and Racquet unveil the Rallymaster III, the third edition of their tennis-inspired watch collaboration designed by Carlton DeWoody. This new version features an olive-green dial reminiscent of traditional lawn tennis courts and incorporates 18k rose gold components for added sophistication. The watch is complemented by tan-colored straps, creating a 'green over tan' look favored by vintage and luxury car enthusiasts. The Rallymaster III blends classic retro elements with modern tennis cues, sporting a versatile 39mm case size suitable for most wrists. The watch box includes a custom pink tennis ball and multiple strap options: a grained calf leather strap and a stretchy elastic strap, both with a quick-release system for on-court and off-court versatility.

Carlton DeWoody, known for his interior design work, drew inspiration from the graphic watch dials of the 60s and 70s for the Rallymaster III. His passion for tennis and vintage timepieces made him an ideal collaborator for this capsule collection. DeWoody aimed to merge past and present by reinterpreting classic design with a contemporary perspective, inspired by colorful sub-dials and patterns from yachting and racing watches. The Rallymaster III, celebrating the original grass tennis courts, will be launched in the Wimbledon neighborhood, featuring a party attended by players, coaches, media, and notable figures from the tennis and watch communities.

Louis Moinet Black Moon

  • Brand: Louis Moinet

  • Model: Black Moon

  • Reference: -

  • Case: 40.70mm

  • Case Material: Titanium

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Movement: LM110

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 40 hours

  • Price: Price on request (Limited to 60 pieces)

The BLACK MOON watch, limited to 60 pieces, features an innovative lunar cycle display with two lunar meteorites on a domed central disc. An index at 3 o'clock, framed in red, indicates the current moon phase by aligning with the meteorite fragment circled in red for a full moon. The watch combines a simple aesthetic with a sophisticated mechanism, including a 135-tooth gear train that ensures exceptional precision, deviating only one day in 122 years. Powered by a self-winding calibre designed by Louis Moinet and Concepto, the BLACK MOON showcases rare meteorites, one marbled grey and the other deep black, representing the full and new moon, respectively.

The BLACK MOON's meteorites, Dhofar 457 and Gadamis 005, originate from the Moon, with Dhofar 457 indicating the full moon on the watch. The dial's three-dimensional design, with an aventurine base evoking starry skies, is surrounded by a modern structure that holds the luminescent indexes, ensuring optimal visibility in the dark. Additional features include a sector seconds subdial, an openworked area revealing the balance wheel, and a redesigned oscillating weight. The watch is housed in a lightweight, polished, and satin-finished titanium case with a domed sapphire crystal and openworked lugs, completed with a Fleur de lys-adorned crown.


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