Watches of the Week: 05/09/2022 - 11/09/2022
Welcome to the next update of the Watches of the Week segment, my weekly round-up of all the new watches released over the past seven days. Last week was full of incredible new watches, including some new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak references, four amazing new independent watches as well as a refined and slimmed down Tudor Pelagos fit for the masses.
This week, perhaps not as eventful as last, was still highlighted by some exceptional new watches, namely from Girard-Perregaux, Seiko and Jaquet Droz. And I know I'm playing catch up with it having been released a few weeks back, but I can't forget the blue ceramic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Happy reading!
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Green
The last green Laureato that Girard-Perregaux was the stunning Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition reference 81020-11-001-11A. This was undeniably well received and featured an Aston Martin green dial. The latest green-dialled watch is the Laureato 42 Green, which features a lighter green dial coupled with Girard-Perregaux's famed Clous de Paris pattern. The green on this reference is absolutely beautiful. It's lush, rich, ever-changing depending on the angle and intensity of the light that hits it, and pairs well with the deep crevices of the Clous de Paris dial.
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Green continues in the same vein as the other 42mm Laureato models, where it features a stainless-steel case with an octagonal bezel, like the original model had in 1975. The case is gorgeously finished, with circular brushing on the upper bezel, mirror polishing on the lower bezel and bracelet links, and horizontal brushing on the rest of the case and bracelet. Powering the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Green is the maison's in-house calibre GP01800 automatic movement, which also features an abundance of sumptuous finishings.
Brand: Girard-Perregaux Model: Laureato 42 Green Case: 42mm Case Material: Stainless steel Water Resistance: 100m Calibre: GP01800 Price: $14,300USD Verdict: A befittingly rich colour palette for the equally as rich in history and fervour Laureato.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue
Audemars Piguet is a pioneering force in the realm of avant garde material-use in watchmaking. From its use of black and white ceramic, Audemars Piguet has paved the way for many other watchmakers to follow suit, using new and innovative materials to breathe new life into their respective watch collections. And now, Audemars Piguet has done it again. This time with the new reference 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01. Encased in blue ceramic with a matching blue ceramic bracelet, the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic is perhaps the maison's most extraordinary piece yet.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic features a delicious shade of blue that flows from the Grande Tapisserie dial to the bezel to the case and to the bracelet. Basically, the entire structure of the reference 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01 is blue, with just the most subtle pops of colour on the dial and the screws in the octagonal bezel. This is a bold watch, with really nowhere to hide its distinct and almost over empowering palette. I say almost over empowering, because the blue Audemars Piguet used is quite soft in its look. Of course, seeing this piece in the metal may be a completely different story. Can't wait to see it.
Brand: Audemars Piguet Model: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic Case: 41mm Case Material: Blue ceramic
Water Resistance: 20m Calibre: 5134 Price: Price on request
Verdict: If an all-blue Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is your thing, then you'd be remiss to pass on this latest reference. My heart still lies with the openworked black ceramic reference though. Then the closed dial. Then the white ceramic model. Then this.
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph
Seiko has released its latest timepiece, the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph reference SRQ043. Based on the legendary dual column wheel and vertical clutch calibre 6139 that resided in the equally as legendary 1969 Speedtimer, the new Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph continues on that legacy with its own column wheel and vertical clutch movement, the calibre 8R46. The benefit of having both mechanisms in a single movement is overall improved precision and timing. The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph also looks the part, with a lovely blue dial, vintage-inspired chronograph pushers and an enormous amount of meticulous detailing throughout. The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph is a touch on the expensive side, but you can imagine if you were to get the same amount of tech from a Swiss brand how much that would set you back. Brand: Seiko Model: Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph Case: 42.5mm Case Material: Stainless steel Water Resistance: 100m Calibre: 8R46 Price: AUD$4,995 Verdict: Hard to look past the price which does get you a genuine in-house entry-level watch endowed with the name of a well known and well established Swiss brand. But if that's not your concern or you're looking to dabble in some high quality Japanese watchmaking, definitely consider this.
Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton
Up next is the Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton. Available in a variety of piece unique variants (depending on the request of the buyer), the newest automaton to leave the JD atelier is perhaps one of its coolest. It was designed and made in collaboration with John Howe, the artistic designer of 'The Lord of the Rings' and 'The Hobbit' trilogies, and features a dragon with an incredible 9 separate automatons. It's important to remember that this is an entirely mechanical process, whereby in a random sequence the dragon that adorns much of the dial can move its spine, tail, eyes, jaw, tongue, crest or claws. This is definitely a sight to behold and it's an art that I feel Jaquet Droz reigns supreme over. Brand: Jaquet Droz Model: Dragon Automaton Case: 43mm Case Material: Red gold Water Resistance: 30m Calibre: 6150 Price: Price on application Verdict: A visceral delight of movement, theatrics and artistry.
Lang & Heyne Georg SHH Edition
Lang & Heyne presents its latest masterpiece made in collaboration with Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) in Singapore, the Georg SHH Edition to celebrate the opening of the retailer's new boutique in Marina Bay Sands. Based on the beautiful platform that is the Georg, the new Georg SHH Edition features a stunning rectangular rose gold case and a three-part dial, which I'll elaborate on in a second.
The dial consists of a galvanised royal blue main plate with a sandblasted silvered base, as well as a main and secondary dial made from white diamond polished ceramic. This gives the Georg SHH Edition a beautiful contrast of deep, rich colours and textures as well as soft and silky smooth colours. The recessed seconds register adds another element of depth to the dial, which is topped off by those wonderful Lancet shaped rose gold hands. And let's not forget that vivid and superlatively dramatic Calibre VIII, either. Top draw stuff.
Brand: Lang & Heyne Model: Georg SHH Edition Case: 40mm Case Material: Rose gold Water Resistance: 30m Calibre: Calibre VIII Price: 71,910SGD
Verdict: Master chronometry topped off by meticulous hand processes to create a truly magnificent spectacle of non-conformist horology.