Last week featured an assortment of new and exciting watches. Rolex dropped the deep-diving 11,000 metre-rated titanium Deepsea Challenge, Omega unveiled two of its most complicated and most expensive watches ever, and Audemars Piguet revealed two brand new Royal Oak models, one the purple-burgundy coloured Perpetual Calendar and a blinged out Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon.
In this week's Watches Of The Week segment, I'll be highlighting new watches from Vacheron Constantin celebrating the next Chinese zodiac, a very interesting piece from Edox, a fantastic GMT Worldtimer from Raymond Weil, a new tourbillon from Breitling and an immense piece of haute horlogerie from Moritz Grossmann. Happy reading and I hope you have a fantastic week.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Year of the Rabbit
Vacheron Constantin unveiled two pieces, one in platinum and the other in pink gold, to celebrate the next Chinese zodiac for the year of the rabbit. Both models have a case that measures 40mm by 12.72mm, both have a focal point of a case material matched hand-engraved rabbit in the centre of the dial, and both are powered by Vacheron Constantin's unconventional calibre 2460 G4 (which features four separate apertures in each quadrant of the dial which depicts the passing hours, minutes, days and dates).
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Métiers d'Art Year of the Rabbit
Reference: 86073xx
Case: 40mm
Case Material: Platinum/Pink Gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: 2460 G4
Price: Price On Request
Verdict: A lovely balance of creativity, finishing and technical excellence.
Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC Vintage Cream
To commemorate the maison's 14th birthday, Moritz Grossmann has unveiled its latest variation of one its most acclaimed models, the HAMATIC. Now featuring a beautiful cream coloured dial encased in white gold, the new HAMATIC Vintage Cream is a hallmark piece of the manufacture. There are distinct details on the solid silver dial, including those hand-crafted poiré-shaped hands that shine a violet hue (much like the ones the atelier used to make for pocket watches), gorgeous dial print and a recessed small seconds sub-dial.
As subtle and as inconspicuous as they come, the HAMATIC Vintage Cream's true magic lies in that delightful in-house calibre 106.0, visible through the open sapphire caseback. The calibre 106.0 features a traditional automatic hammer mechanism which generates energy by the hammer's movement, as opposed to the conventional force generation made by the movement of a rotor. Of course, the most superlative of finishings can be seen throughout the calibre.
Brand: Moritz Grossmann Model: HAMATIC Vintage Cream Reference: MG-003404 Case: 41mm Case Material: White Gold Water Resistance: - Calibre: Calibre 106.0 Price: €45,700
Verdict: A truly if-you-know-you-know kind of watch. Absolute pinnacle watchmaking.
Breitling Introduces The Premier Tourbillon
Breitling has gone to lengths to flex its might in the world of contemporary watchmaking. But perhaps none more so than with its latest trio of watches, the Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42. Breitling's CEO Georges Kern was quoted saying the following: The Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42 is the perfect expression of Breitling’s design and expertise. In the tourbillon, you see the mechanism living at every second. It is the beating heart of the watch.” The new Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42 is available in three metals: 18k red gold with a cream coloured dial; 18k white gold with an anthracite colour dial; and in platinum with a blue dial. Each model is powered by the B21 calibre with its tourbillon on full display at the top of the dial.
Verdict: An interesting venture for Breitling, and one that is as commendable as it is intriguing.
Edox Delfin Mecano
Now this is an interesting new watch from none other than Edox. Presenting the new openworked Delfin Mecano. Featuring a distinct skeletonised dial highlighted by khaki-coloured bridges contrasted with a grey bezel and case, the new Delfin Mecano is complimented by a matching khaki-green rubber strap. Compelling stuff especially at this price point.
Brand: Edox Model: Delfin Mecano Reference: 85303-357GNCAV-VONB
Case: 43mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Water Resistance: 200m
Calibre: Calibre 853
Price: €1,690
Verdict: Sound openworking, interesting colour combination and a very approachable price point.
Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer
Raymond Weil unveiled its latest and greatest in the new Freelancer GMT Worldtimer. Available in a stainless steel/bronze or a black DLC-coated stainless steel guise, the Freelancer GMT Worldtimer is a refreshing piece from the maison. It is highlighted by a legible world time and GMT complication, both indicated dial-side. Aesthetically the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer in either colour configuration is right on the money, looking and feeling exactly how a travel-ready watch should be. It looks durable yet wearable, and a simple strap change will definitely give it a completely different angle depending on where you're going to wear it and what you're going to wear it with. Tick of approval!
Brand: Raymond Weil
Model: Freelancer GMT Worldtimer
Reference: 2765xx
Case: 40.5mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel/Bronze
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: RW3230
Price: AUD4,550
Verdict: A solid winner from Raymond Weil, no question about it.