The week prior was full of incredible watches, like the Moritz Grossmann DATE Turquoise and the A. Lange & Söhne piece unique 1815 Chronograph 'Hampton Court Edition'. This week continued in the same vein, with an assortment of exciting watches being unveiled over the course of the last seven days.
This week heralded in a range of new watches from the storied halls of the Breguet maison, the thriving independent haute horlogerie watchmaker H. Moser & Cie and the manufacture pulsing with Italian spirit, Panerai. Happy reading!
Update: The release of the new Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe.
Breguet Classique Calendar 7337
As A. Lange & Söhne rules the roost of caseback finishing, I truly believe Breguet reigns supreme as one of the greatest dial finishers, ever. And the Breguet Classique Calendar 7337 is a prime example of that sentiment. The Breguet Classique Calendar 7337 in its latest variation of either white gold or rose gold, features an abundance of decorative dial finishings, including a Cous de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern hand-engraved on a rose engine as the dial's main protagonist, a circular barleycorn motif on the outer dial, a hand-hammered gold moon with its surrounding clouds having been sandblasted and a blue lacquer sky, traditional blued steel open-tipped Breguet hands and a distinct flavour that is completely akin to the Breguet maison.
But the Breguet Classique Calendar 7337 isn't all show and no go, featuring the 2.40mm thick Calibre 502 that features an almost like-for-like amount of decorative detailing as the dial. In either reference the Breguet Classique Calendar 7337 shines, but my pick of the two would definitely be the super subtle and far more wearable white gold model.
The Breguet Classique Calendar 7337 in either white or rose gold is priced at $62,700AUD.
Verdict: A triumph of decorative finishing that reminds of the prowess that lies within the Breguet maison.
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack®
Upon its initial release, the Streamliner's quite bold aesthetic didn't sit well for me. I was definitely in the minority, with many of my friends really taking to the new cushion-shaped model. But in its latest variation, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack® has won me over. Subtle curves, clean lines and a beautiful balance has seriously got me lusting, hard.
There is just something about that red gold case, red gold integrated bracelet, Vantablack® dial and double hairspring flying tourbillon that has sweetened the deal. I love how Moser has continued on its thematic approach that it has become so well known for: minimalism and simplicity. Of course, having a tourbillon is quite the paradox, but it does balance the equation and for good measure, too.
The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack® is priced at 109,000CHF
Verdict: Unlike anything else out there capped off by the majesty of a flying tourbillon.
Panerai Luminor BiTempo
Panerai unveiled two brand new pieces in its Luminor collection, the BiTempo references PAM01360 and PAM01361. Both models feature the ever useful GMT complication encased in the distinct Luminor case construct with either a flat black (PAM01360) or a sun-brushed blue (PAM01361) dial.
Each reference is highlighted by two light-blue tipped GMT and power reserve hands, which adds a nice touch of colour differentiation to the pieces. Interestingly enough and to exemplify the maison's Italian flair, the word 'BiTempo' refers to the watch's GMT function, while the word 'ore' indicates the amount of hours left in the power reserve.
The Panerai Luminor BiTempo PAM01360 and PAM01361 are priced at €10,300.
Verdict: The Luminor BiTempo is as versatile as it is wearable as it is practical.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Pro 300 GMT
The new Aquaracer Pro 300 GMT is the one we've all been waiting for from TAG Heuer. It's a grown up version of a very considerable entry-level watch that looks and feels far more than its super accessible price tag lets on. For starters, that distinct and very appealing aesthetic, which combines soft ocean-faring colours with dashes of brighter colours all packaged up in a highly wearable and balanced case.
Then we have the engine of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Pro 300 GMT, which is the manufacture's very own Calibre 7. It's as much of a utilitarian movement as it is a workhorse, with a power reserve of 50 hours, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Pro 300 GMT definitely holds its own as a capable, robust and durable GMT that will confidently partner you on your adventures across the timezones.
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Pro 300 GMT is priced at $5,500AUD.
Verdict: An Aquaracer that is more than the sum of its own parts.
Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe
Greubel Forsey, arguably one of the finest watchmaking institutions the world has ever and will ever see, has just dropped the most almighty of horological bombs with the new GMT Balancier Convexe. Featuring a brand new calibre which replaces its predecessor, the GMT Balancier Convexe redfines Greubel Forsey's atypical GMT.
With an inclined balance wheel, unique architecture and meticulous detailing throughout the Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe is a signature piece that shifts the focus to that immense orbiting Earth model. Made of titanium, it depicts the continents, seas and oceans in perhaps the most dramatic and awe inspiring of fashions, rotating every 24-hours and offering its lucky wearer a view of the Earth that is rarely ever seen. Coupled with the convex titanium shape and hand finishing (that includes black polishing, blued gold hands, frosted surfaces and mirror polishing), the Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe is truly a sight to behold.
The Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe will be made in a limited run of 22 pieces per year between 2022 and 2024.
Verdict: An epic spectacle of astronomical proportions.