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Watches Of The Week: 27/11/2023 - 03/12/2023

Welcome back to the weekly round up of all the new watch releases, Watches Of The Week. In this week's edition, Audemars Piguet headlined as outgoing CEO François-Henry Bennahmias bids farewell to the maison with a new Royal Oak, Breitling featured a trio of high complication Top Time B21 models and Panerai dropped a super-limited release. And Jaeger-LeCoultre teamed up with MR PORTER with a release I know a lot of us Sydneysiders will be very interested in checking out.

Happy reading and have a great week ahead.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Cactus Jack"

Audemars Piguet's François-Henry Bennahmias celebrates the closure of his tenure as the proverbial boss of bosses with the release of his swan song piece, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked "Cactus Jack". Not many do a new watch reveal like Audemars Piguet, and the new 26585CM.OO.D301VE.01 reference definitely continues in that vein.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked "Cactus Jack" was made in collaboration with Travis Scott and his streetwear label, Cactus Jack. It features a brown ceramic case, typography based on the musician's handwriting around the dial, and the Cactus Jack's smiley emblem for the moonphase. Everything else is business as usual: proportions, finising, movement.

Brand: Audemars Piguet

Model: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked "Cactus Jack"

Reference: 26585CM.OO.D301VE.01

Case: 41mm

Case Material: Brown ceramic

Water Resistance: 20m

Calibre: Calibre 5135

Price: CHF178,000 (Limited to 200 pieces) Verdict: Polarising but in essence a very cool and fun take on some proper complicated watchmaking.

De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire

De Bethune entered the fray with the new DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire. When De Bethune announces a new watch, my ears always perk up, and the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire definitely didn't disappoint.

Encased in blued polished titanium with a "microlight" case middle set with a baguette sapphire and featuring a one of the coolest, most SCI-FI like dials in the game, the De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire delivers on multiple fronts. The focal point here is, of course, that spectacular tourbillon at the bottom of the dial. Oh, and those lugs *chef's kiss*. Brand: De Bethune

Model: DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire

Reference: DB28XP

Case: 43mm

Case Material: Titanium

Water Resistance: 30m

Calibre: DB2009v5

Price: TBA (Limited to 25 pieces) Verdict: Indies like De Bethune continue to fan the flame of innovation, creativity with unmatched pioneering spirit. Find out more here.

Jaeger-LeCoultre x MR PORTER Reverso

Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER have teamed up to create a trio of unique references for the Reverso Classic Large Small Seconds lineage. These three models depict three iconic global cities, being Los Angeles, Singapore, and now, Sydney! The depiction is on the "back" of the watch. But for all of you in the know, the Reverso doesn't really have a back, thanks to its 160-part swivelling mechanism to essentially "reverse" the dial.

On the back of the Reverso is a beautiful engraving of the Sydney Opera House and the Habour Bridge, both renowned around the world and instinctively associated with Sydney. This idea of featuring cities on the back of the Reverso began in 2021, where Jaeger-LeCoultre teamed up with MR PORTER to create engraved editions of New York, London and Hong Kong.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Large Small Seconds references are also available on The Haulogerium.

Find out more here.

Panerai Luminor Marina Carbotech Luna Rossa PAM01529

Released exclusively online and in a limited run of only 37 pieces, Panerai unveiled the Luminor Marina Carbotech Luna Rossa PAM01529 as a 24-hour capsule release. The PAM01529 celebrates the partnership between the maison and the America's Cup racing competitor, Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team, and celebrates the 37th cup that the team took part in.

The Luminor Marina Carbotech Luna Rossa PAM01529 has a Carbotech case with a black DLC titanium caseback, a beautiful sunray-brushed blue sandwich dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Powering the Luminor Marina Carbotech Luna Rossa PAM01529 is Panerai's P.9010 automatic movement.

Brand: Panerai

Model: Luminor Marina Carbotech Luna Rossa PAM01529

Reference: PAM01529

Case: 44mm

Case Material: Carbotech

Water Resistance: 300m

Calibre: P.9010

Price: AUD24,700 (Limited to 37 pieces) Verdict: Another celebration of Panerai's seafaring, wave-riding lineage.

Breitling Top Time B21 Tourbillon Chronograph

Breitling continues to push forward, with the new Top Time B21 Tourbillon Chronograph delivering in waves of nostalgia and high horology. Available in three distinct models, the Breitling Top Time B21 Tourbillon Chronograph is available in the guise of the Top Time B21 Ford Mustang (Bronze case, green dial), Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra (Ceramic case, blue dial) and Top Time B21 Chevy Corvette (Ceramic case, brown dial). Each model is priced at AUD64,790.

Hautlence Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 3

Hautlence's prowess in the realm of high complicated watchmaking continues to live on with the maison's latest out-of-the-box watch, the Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 3. Featuring a dial made of sculpted superconductor material, a distinctive midnight blue PVD coated case, the Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 3 from out the outset looks super unique.

Beating beneath the heart of the Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 3 is the calibre D30. The D30 has a double hairspring flying tourbillon with wandering hours and minutes, a power reserve of 72 hours and is made up of 217 components.

Brand: Hautlence

Model: Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 3

Reference: AD30-ST00

Case: 43mm

Case Material: Steel (Midnight blue PVD coated)

Water Resistance: 10m

Calibre: D30

Price: CHF65,000 (Limited to 28 pieces) Verdict: Very different and very interesting. Can't not enjoy a double hairspring flying tourbillon, either.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Sunburnt

Chopard partnered with artist Shaun Daniel Allen (Shal) with the new Alpine Eagle Sunburnt. The Chopard Alpine Eagle Sunburnt is one of the coolest new watches this week and features a dial that has been brought to life with the artistic talent from Shal.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Sunburnt features a "Sunburst Red" dial, inspired by the Australian landscape. Its design reflects the changes of light and shade that the sun reflects across the land, with the end result being something completely different and utterly intriguing. Brand: Chopard

Model: Alpine Eagle Sunburnt

Reference: 298600-3025

Case: 41mm

Case Material: Lucent steel

Water Resistance: 100m

Calibre: Chopard 01.01-C

Price: AUD27,500 (Limited to 20 pieces) Verdict: A dial like no other and a fitting tribute to the Indigenous people of Australia.

Ralph Lauren Introduces New Stirrup Models

Ralph Lauren unveiled new Stirrup models, inspired by the equestrian heritage of the brand's eponymous owner. Each of the new watches feature stirrup-shaped cases, with some minor yet identifiable differences noted.

The Stirrup Small and Petite-Link are both set with one row of diamonds, with the Petite-Link featuring a jewelry-inspired bracelet composed of intertwining links with rows of diamonds flowing into each other.

Verdict: A distinct and wholesome take on some unique watchmaking from RL.


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