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Dimitri Tsilioris

Week in Review: 20/05/2019 – 26/05/2019


In the second instalment of our “Week in Review” round-up of all the coolest new releases, we’ve got watches from the likes of H. Moser & Cie, Chopard, F. P. Journe and a whole bunch of other watchmakers.



Enjoy!


H. Moser & Cie Heritage Tourbillon Funky Blue


Retailing at $79,000 (that’s in Australian dollars; otherwise it is 49,900CHF), the new Heritage Tourbillon Funky Blue is an adventurous step in a new design direction. Combining H. Moser & Cie’s infamous double hairspring tourbillon technology with a gorgeous Funky Blue fumé dial, the Heritage Tourbillon Funky Blue does well to satisfy the two camps of watchmaking. Measuring 42mm in diameter and 11.10mm in thickness, it does look larger than it actually is, no doubt with thanks to its expansive dial, wired lugs, slim rehaut and enlarged crown. The gothic style Arabic numerals are cool, as are the cathedral hands.


Vacheron Constantin Digital Certification of Authentication


Created to combat counterfeiting and to offer some kind of guarantee of authenticity throughout the lifespan of their watches, Vacheron Constantin have introduced their Digital Certification of Authentication to continue the fight against the shadier parts of horology. Currently being trialed with the Les Collectionneurs pieces, the Digital Certification of Authentication process is supported by ultra-contemporary Blockchain technologies. By avoiding paper authentication, Vacheron Constantin have created a forgery-proof digital certificate of authenticity which virtually follows the watch wherever it goes. This unparalleled level of protection will no doubt be introduced throughout Vacheron Constantin’s collections, and it will be interesting to see if the horological world at large will jump on board, too.


F. P. Journe LineSport Centigraphe & Automatique Réserve


Now available in platinum and 18k gold versions, the LineSport Centigraphe & Automatique Réserve feature same-material bracelets with matte finishing. Doing away with the rubber inserts, the LineSport Centigraphe & Automatique Réserve both look more expensive and more appealing. The Centigraphe is obviously the far more complicated, albeit dearer of the two, with the Automatique Réserve holding its own as a decent daily wearer. Both watches continue the appealing design genome that all of F. P. Journe’s watches carry with them.


Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Baguette


A brand new limited-edition timepiece from Chopard, the L.U.C Flying T Twin Baguette perfectly captures the glitz and glam of the Cannes Film Festival. A combination of platinum, diamonds and true high horology really leaves one to wonder just how much better the L.U.C Flying T Twin Baguette could be. Powered by the stunning in-house made L.U.C 96.24-L calibre which, interestingly enough, features Chopard’s first flying tourbillon, the L.U.C Flying T Twin Baguette is mind-blowingly beautiful. Well versed for stints on the red carpet, I’m sure.


Omega Casamigos Planet Ocean


Created in collaboration with Casamigos Tquila and Mezcal, the Casamigos Planet Ocean features a blacked-out theme contrasted by hints of teal, reminiscent of Casamigos’ branding. At 45.50mm in diameter, the matte black ceramic case is proportionally large and, in itself, quite a spectacle. However, it is super functional and above all else, damn good looking. I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Deep Black, and the Casamigos Planet Ocean is no different. The Casamigos Planet Ocean is limited to only 80-pieces and is exclusive only to Omega boutiques in the US.


Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary


Robust, rugged and well versed to handle whatever life throws at it, the Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary looks and feels like a watch that can hold its own, and then some. Its architectural design renders it busy, but there is a consistent flow throughout the watch that I find appealing. It looks aggressive and brash, and it does seem to be a polarising aesthetic, but it’s one that does grow on you. Finished in a two-tone colour scheme and featuring a bunch of holes and cut-outs, the Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Arktis 10th Anniversary is an interesting watch that probably needs to be seen to be appreciated.


Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT “Lo Scienziato” PAM00768


One of Panerai’s most complicated watches gets reintroduced, this time clad in a Luminor DMLS titanium and Carbotech case. Measuring 47mm across and a whopping 17.66mm in thickness, the Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT “Lo Scienziato” PAM00768 is anything but small. Its titanium and carbotech case has been treated to sandblasting treatment which looks fantastic. But the real winner is the calibre P.2005/T, featuring a 30-second tourbillon rotating on an axis perpendicular to the balance wheel. The web-patterned inverted dial is awesome and leaves a lot of exposure, great for the eye under a loupe. Themes of military green flange surrounding the Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT “Lo Scienziato” PAM00768 and are found throughout the openworked dial, too.


Ressence Type 1ZZ


Created in collaboration with Laurent Picciotto, the owner and founder of the luxury horological haven that is known as Chronopassion, the new Ressence Type 1ZZ carries with it a very beautiful black toned theme. The matte black DLC titanium case, coupled with the matte dark grey PVD covered German silver dial is, in a word, outstanding. It really makes for a dark, ominous but altogether super appealing watch. The entire body of the watch encased Ressence’s proprietary oil-filled movement, which in the case of the Type 1ZZ is the heavily customised ETA 2892/A movement, fitted with a ROCS1 system. The Ressence Type 1ZZ is limited to only 20 watches and is available exclusively at Chronopassion.


A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “25th Anniversary”


The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “25th Anniversary” is the brand’s fifth celebratory piece, commemorating the Lange 1’s 25th anniversary. We recently covered the brilliant Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “25th Anniversary", and like its ultra-complicated predecessor, the Lange 1 Time Zone “25th Anniversary” features a white gold case with a silvered dial, blue printed numeral, blued steel hands and the extra engraving on the movement. This is an aesthetic that just works for Lange, and especially so for the diehard Lange enthusiasts. Long known as the collector’s favourite, the Lange 1 Time Zone “25th Anniversary” features exquisite detailing and execution throughout, a trait we’ve all come to expect from the German watchmakers.


TAG Heuer Monaco 1969-1979 Limited Edition


The first of five new limited edition Monacos celebrating the icon watch’s illustrious history through the decades, the Monaco 1969-1979 Limited Edition features a vertically slated Cötes de Genève green dial with red and yellow highlights. The utilitarian looking dial perfectly matches the distressed brown leather strap, and if you’re likening its look to that of the Monaco 1969-1979 Limited Edition’s respective era, then you’re right. TAG Heuer are drawing inspiration from the design and stylistic trends of each era to create the five limited edition watches.


Breguet Marine with Titanium Bracelets


Applicable to the Marine 5517, the Chronograph 5527 and the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547, the new titanium bracelets really add elements of luxury to each respective watch. Finished to the brilliant levels we expect from Breguet, the bracelets fit beautifully with the flow of each respective case. Each bracelet features satin-brushing and polishing, matching perfectly with the finishings of the case. Functional additions to watches that are, in themselves, some of Breguet’s most wearable.


Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer


The Seamaster Aqua Terra is perhaps Omega’s most overlooked, but it’s one that I have a deep adoration for. The Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer is the latest example of the watch, and now we have a stunning worldtimer indicator. In the centre is the map of the world, surrounding by a day/night indicator, with the light blue half indicating the day and the dark blue indicating the night. The red tipped seconds hand and London insignia adds some pop, and the fact that this is a METAS certified watch merely adds to its appeal.


Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L


Featuring a beautiful rhodium-plated brass dial within the 44mm wide white-gold case, the new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L is a beautiful rendition of the brand’s famed moonphase watch. The stunning moonphase indicator is plated in rhodium and sandblasted brass and looks absolutely spectacular. I love the level of ingenuity that the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1L has. It truly is a one-of-a-kind piece.

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