Watches And Wonders 2024 has officially come to an end. While the main players had a quieter year than last, some of the smaller and lesser known brands really came into their own. I thought that all in all though, every watchmaker had a fantastic showing, and so putting together a list of the best new watches of Watches And Wonders 2024 was harder than I thought it would have been.
Here the 15 best new watches to have featured at Watches And Wonders 2024, including pieces from the likes of Laurent Ferrier, Cartier, Ulysse Nardin and Chopard.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon
Brand: Laurent Ferrier
Model: Classic Moon
Reference: LCF039.R5.G3N/LCF039.AC.C1WC
Case: 40mm x 12.90mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel/Red Gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: LF126.02
Price: CHF70,000/CHF80,000
The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon eases its way into the list of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024. Available in either stainless steel with a grey-opaline dial or red gold with a vertically satin-finished silver dial, the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon is beautiful rendition of a timeless complication, complete with the quintessential aesthetic cues that we've come to know and love from the independent watchmaker.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
Model: Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
Reference: 740.055FE
Case: 41.50mm x 14.60mm
Case Material: Honeygold
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: L952.4
Price: USD620,000 (Limited to 50 pieces)
One could justifiably call the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” as one of those absolute halo pieces to come out of the German watchmaking atelier. The combination of two of the brand's most recognisable visceral elements in the Lumen dial guise and the Honeygold case material, paired with the absurdly complicated and genuinely brilliant Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon platform makes it one of those curtain-closing grails of Watches And Wonders 2024.
Rolex Day-Date 40
Brand: Rolex
Model: Day-Date 40
Reference: 228235
Case: 40mm x 12mm
Case Material: Everose gold
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: 3255
Price: AUD66,500
The new Rolex Day-Date 40 reference 228235 features a lovely slate ombré dial with an Everose gold case, making it by far one of the more beautiful pieces released by Rolex at this year's Watches And Wonders showcase. Besides the obvious visual changes, not much else has changed internally, with the 228235 still powered by the 2015-made calibre 3255. Regardless though, a genuine showstopper the Rolex Day-Date 40 is without a doubt.
Tudor Black Bay
Brand: Tudor
Model: Black Bay
Reference: M7941A1A0NU-0003
Case: 41mm x 13.60mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Water Resistance: 200m
Calibre: MT5602-U
Price: AUD6,720
Tudor came into its own at Watches And Wonders 2024 with its latest iteration of the Black Bay. The new Master Chronometer certified Black Bay carries with it all of the attributes of being a staple in any collection. Priced roughly half of what its bigger brother is now priced at, the Black Bay presents tremendous value and accessibility, all the while well and truly being a genuinely comparable article. Hats off to one of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024.
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad
Brand: Ulysse Nardin
Model: Freak S Nomad
Reference: 2513-500LE-4A-GUI/xx
Case: 45mm x 16.65mm
Case Material: Titanium, Carbon Fibre
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: UN-251
Price: CHF140,600
If you want to talk about shock value then the Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad is something that you really can't look past. Arguably one of the most interesting pieces to come out of the show, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad is the perfect marriage of chronometry brilliance, horological innovation and thinking well and truly beyond the norm of watchmaking.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
Brand: Piaget
Model: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
Reference: G0A4951
Case: 41.50mm x 2mm
Case Material: M64BC Cobalt Alloy
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: 970P-UC
Price: TBA (Made to order)
Piaget made history with the new Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary, becoming the first and only watchmaker to offer a tourbillon in a case that measures only 2mm in thickness. This puts it at only .3mm thicker than Bulgari's latest record-breaking Finissimo, albeit where the Piaget can definitely lay claim to having the more complicated of the two.
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
Brand: Zenith
Model: Defy Extreme Diver
Reference: 95.9600.3620/21.I300
Case: 42.5mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Water Resistance: 600m
Calibre: El Primero 3620 SC
Price: AUD17,500
As fantastic as the all-rounder Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph is and as cool as the Defy Revival A3648 is, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver won the show for me, easily fitting into this list of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024. Big, bold and brash, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is a unique take on some very serious tool-watch business. Built to defy the depths given its 600m water resistant rating, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is anything but a desk diver. Love it.
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Brand: IWC
Model: Portugieser Eternal Calendar
Reference: IW505701
Case: 44.40mm x 15mm
Case Material: Platinum
Water Resistance: 50m
Calibre: 52460
Price: CHF150,000
Anything that boasts the numbers that the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar does should and will have its placed solidified on the list of best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024, period. With a calendar accurate to 3,499, a 400-year gear for the recognition of irregular leap years, and a moon phase accurate for 45,000,000 years for both Northern and Southern hemispheres, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar is by far one of the maison's most interesting and complicated timepieces this side of the turn of the decade.
Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar
Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: Annual Calendar
Reference: 5396G
Case: 38.50mm x 11.20mm
Case Material: White Gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: 26-330 S QA LU 24H
Price: USD63,510
The Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar won my vote. From sunburst blue dial with a black gradient to the diamond indices, the simple and legible annual calendar layout and its almost overly discreet look, the Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar comes in as one of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024 for me by far.
Oris Aquis Date
Brand: Oris
Model: Aquis Date
Reference: -
Case: 43.50mm x 13.10mm; 41.50mm x 12.90mm; 36.50mm x 12.20mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Water Resistance: 300m
Calibre: Calibre 400 (In-House) or Calibre 733 (Sellita base)
Price: From CHF2,200 for Calibre 733 or CHF3,600 for Calibre 400
Oris has revamped its Aquis Date collection with a handful of new models in new sizes, colours and with the option of having Oris' manufacture movement, or an ebauche mechanism that is a touch more affordable. There are several newly redesigned elements to the updated Aquis Date, but perhaps the most integral is the option of buying the piece with a genuine manufacture movement. I really, really like it.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine
Reference: 5100T/000P-H041
Case: 42.50mm x 11.70mm
Case Material: Platinum
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: 3200
Price: Price On Request
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine wins it for me, even over the 63-complication Berkley Grand Complication. The Collection Excellence Platine is one of my all-time favourite collections of watches from any maison, with the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine peaking in both material and technical departments. One of the key pieces of the show and one of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024.
Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph
Brand: Cartier
Model: Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph
Reference: CRWHTO0007/CRWHTO0008
Case: 34.80mm x 10.20mm
Case Material: Yellow Gold/Platinum
Water Resistance: 30m
Calibre: 1928 MC
Price: CHF49,100/CHF57,00
Making its mark as one of the most impressive watches of the show is the Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph. Available in either yellow gold or platinum, the newest piece from Cartier signifies the atelier's pursuit for horological brilliance, aesthetic restraint and an eye for detail. A highlight of Watches And Wonders 2024 for me.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT
Brand: Chopard
Model: Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT
Reference: 298630-3001
Case: 41mm x 8mm
Case Material: Titanium
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: L.U.C 96.17-S
Price: CHF25,200
This was something I definitely was not expecting next to come out of the Alpine Eagle lineage, but it's a piece that I absolutely adore. Here is the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT, complete with an openworked dial in titanium. For the sake of brevity, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT presents as the most modern iteration of the Alpine Eagle and in, its own right, the most impressive. By far and away one of the best watches of Watches and Wonders 2024 and a real indication of how far Chopard is willing to push the envelope these days. Will we see a precious metal or stainless steel variant of this? I sure hope so.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum
Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier
Model: Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum
Reference: PFC912-2020003-200182-EN
Case: 40mm x 8.50mm
Case Material: Platinum
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: PF777
Price: CHF117,000
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum is another superb release that perhaps didn't get the attention it deserved. Encased in platinum with a matching material bracelet, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Platinum boasts an openworked Blue Milano dial, complimenting the case and bracelet's high-grade shine. Absolutely lovely.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda
Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda
Reference: CBS2216.BA0041
Case: 39mm x 13.86mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Water Resistance: 100m
Calibre: TH20-00
Price: AUD9,650
TAG Heuer has officially won me over with the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda (not like they needed to ofc). The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda boasts one of the best looking chronograph aesthetics in the business, complete with retro-inspired details throughout. I really can't fault the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda. It is, in a word, utterly perfect. Hats off to TAG Heuer -- it's been a wild ride but I think we're finally there. One of the best watches of Watches And Wonders 2024, no question about it.