The Finest Time-Only Watches $50,000 Buys You - Part 1

Dimitri Tsilioris
Jun 5
5 min read

Updated: 5 days ago

For $50,000 you would imagine that you can get your hands on some truly high end time-only watchmaking. I'm talking about really the pinnacle of horology, where the worlds of technical mastery, sublime finishing and complete execution is second to absolutely none. For a small fortune, you would most definitely be correct in thinking the same. There is, perhaps, no more beautiful sentiment than a beautifully executed time-only watch. And to be quite honest with you, often a time-only watch that has been tended to with the most meticulous of hands is a more impressive feat of watchmaking than even the most complicated of watches.

I've dug deep and put together two distinct lists highlighting the very best time-only watches that money can buy for under $50,000. The first part will be focusing on classical dress watches, while the second part will feature sports watches. The overarching theme is the same though: exceptional time-only watches that cost less than $50,000.

Let's go.

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A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

There is perhaps no finer example of a time-only watch than the beautiful Saxonia Thin. With a focus on the essentials of time-telling but executed to the absolute nth degree, the Saxonia Thin resonates with all of the illustrious tenets of a truly high-end time-only watch. The reference 201.027 sings to me. Its sumptuous and delicate white case is accentuated by the crisp argenté-coloured dial, with a touch of elegance built upon by those lovely sword hands and elongated baton hour markers. The true magic of the Saxonia Thin is the calibre L093.1 -- a manually wound movement composed of 167-parts, categorically distinctive by its immense three-quarter plate. Add to that the infamous quality of finishing by Lange, and its $37,000 price-tag may make the Saxonia Thin one of the best priced time-only watches, period.

Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
Model: Saxonia Thin
Reference: 201.027
Case: 37mm x 5.90mm
Case Material: White gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: L093.1
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power Reserve: 72 hours

The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin is priced at $37,000.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding

One of the two holy trinity brands to feature, Vacheron Constantin's Traditionnelle Manual-Winding was the stand-out for me over the Patrimony based on a few factors. Namely its dimensions and manually wound movement. A more beautiful time-only watch I've yet to see. Proportionally perfect, subtly finished and a reflection of a bygone era of watchmaking, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is an unencumbered piece of true high horology. The dauphine hands pair well with the thicker-than-most bezel and the wide hour markers, all balanced out by the undersized small seconds register and thin seconds hand. In rose gold, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding absolutely sings, and paired with its clean white dial and the manually wound Geneva Seal calibre 4400 AS, the Traditionnelle is a true highlight in this category and comes well under budget at $39,500.

Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
Reference: 82172/000R-938
Case: 38mm x 7.77mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: 4400 AS
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 65 hours

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is priced at $39,500.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Chopard L.U.C 1860

The L.U.C 1860 is a crowning jewel on Chopard's illustrious crown. A true testament to Chopard's innate watchmaking qualities and its capacity to craft a true masterpiece. Crafted in Lucent Steel (a responsibly made and proprietary alloy that is made up of 80% recycled material) and featuring a gold-base salmon-coloured dial with hand-guilloché, the L.U.C 1860's aesthetic appears soft spoken, and may make you question its $42,500 price point. That is, until you turn the piece over. The L.U.C 1860 is powered by the maisons supreme Calibre 96.40-L. It boasts a gold micro-rotor with twin-barrels, along with the revered Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark and chronometer-certified status. I like the L.U.C 1860 as being the ultimate sleeper in this category, where its inconspicuous visceral features mask the beast that lies within.

Brand: Chopard
Model: L.U.C 1860
Reference: 168860-3003
Case: 36.50mm x 8.20mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: L.U.C 96.40-L
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 65 hours

The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is priced at $42,500.

CHOPARD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds

Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds is a brilliant little bit of kit that marries depth of detail with a stylised design unlike anything else. The Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold is a harmony of subtlety that invites you to delve deeper to discover its horological easter eggs. Inspired by an era of uniqueness, the Reverso epitomises the design cues of art deco. And in the $36,600 Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds, the bridge between tradition and modernity was made. Sophisticated, timeless and generationally relevant, the applause for the brilliant Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds is as ever-constant as Jaeger-LeCoultre's status as a supreme watchmaker is solidified.

Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Model: Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
Reference: Q713257J
Case: 27.40mm x 7.56mm
Case Material: Pink gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 822
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power Reserve: 42 hours

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds is priced at $36,600.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Breguet Classique 5157

An ode to Breguet's masterful watchmaking, the Classique 5157 provides us all with a view of the maison's expertise in dial finishing. With the main portion of the dial featuring Breguet's iconic guilloché pattern, the refinement that comes from this kind of finishing is contrasted by a circular brushed rim and dotted outer rim. The blued steel hands and subtle Breguet signature either side of 12 o'clock round off what is an absolute visceral delight. The Classique 5157 is powered by Breguet's calibre 502.3 which is a beautifully finished movement and features a three-quarter sized rotor. The esteem of Breguet is on full display here, and at $37,200 the Classique 5157 is entirely comparable to any time-only watch on this list.

Brand: Breguet
Model: Classique 5157
Reference: 5157BB/11/9V6
Case: 39mm x 15.20mm
Case Material: White gold
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre 502.3
Frequency: 3 Hz
Power Reserve: 45 hours

The Breguet Classique 5157 is priced at $37,200.

BREGUET

Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate

Blancpain's distinguished history is portrayed beautifully in the Villeret Ultraplate, with the 6605 3642 55B standing firm as one of the more beautiful examples. I rather love the simplicity of this model. Airy, lots of space yet subtly detailed and attractively restrained. At $37,500, the Villeret Ultraplate in red gold is a charming bridge between tradition and modernity, where its aesthetic is that of the quintessential dress watch from yesteryear, yet its highly technical movement speaks to Blancpain's watchmaking capabilities.