Watches of the Week: 18/01/2021 - 24/01/2021
Welcome to this week's round up of all the newest watches of Watches of the Week. This week's column is full of new watches, including the latest pieces from the likes of MB&F, Panerai, Urwerk and De Bethune. Told you there's a lot happening. Enjoy!
You can check out last week's releases here.
MB&F HM9 Sapphire Vision
Like it did with the HM3 FrogX, MB&F has recreated one of its Horological Machines using sapphire crystal. The piece in question is the HM9, and in lieu of a solid case MB&F has utilised a sapphire crystal block, exposing all of the piece's innards. With nowhere to hide, MB&F of course had to go to town with detailing the components of the HM9, and boy did they do a fantastic job. The case continues on with the original HM9's flowing curves and soft edges, accentuated perhaps even more so due to the sapphire crystal. There will be two pieces made available, one with a red gold frame and the other with a white gold frame, both limited to 5 pieces each, with both editions priced at 390,000CHF.
Panerai Luminor Marina Guillaume Néry Edition
Panerai has continued its partnership with French champion freediver Guillaume Néry with its latest piece, the Luminor Marina Guillaume Néry Edition. Featuring a 44mm wide case made out of sandblasted DMLS titanium (DMLS standing for Direct Metal Laser Sintering -- a technology that shapes titanium via a 3D printing method) as well as a beautifully dark black dial, the Luminor Marina Guillaume Néry Edition certainly has a fair amount of wrist presence. The Luminor Marina Guillaume Néry Edition is powered by Panerai's in-house Calibre P.9010 which unfortunately is hidden behind the closed case back. The Panerai Luminor Marina Guillaume Néry Edition will be made available in a limited run of only 70 pieces with an industry-first 70-year warranty period and will be priced at $18,900USD.
De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon DB29
De Bethune's DB Kind of Two Tourbillon DB29 is an exercise in utter brilliance. Like Two-Face from Batman, the De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon DB29 has a somewhat split persona. One side is classical and unassuming. The other side is a complete flip, literally, on what you thought the piece was about. The first side features a dial that is quintessentially De Bethune and features the typical typography and style of the independent watchmaker. The other side portrays the maison's insanely beautiful approach to contemporary watchmaking. Avantgarde, highly modern and unlike anything else in the industry, this side of the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon DB29 perhaps best depicts De Bethune's approach to its watchmaking, putting on an incredibly theatrical display. The De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon DB29 will be made in a limited run of only 10 pieces and will be priced at $250,000USD.
Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Luna Negra
Based in Le Noirmont Switzerland, Cuervo y Sobrinos' Latin-links are all but apparent with its latest piece, the Cuban-inspired Historiador Luna Negra. Offering a full calendar with a moonphase, the Historiador Luna Negra is available in two variations, one with a sand-coloured dial and the other with an anthracite dial. Both models are limited to only 88 pieces, and both will cost 6,000CHF.
Oris Carl Brashear Calibre 401 Limited Edition
You may remember the Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Bronze being featured here last year, so what has Oris done to its latest Carl Brashear-inspired bronze piece? Well, the maison has integrated its own proprietary Calibre 401 into the piece. This is pretty groundbreaking stuff, really elevating the Carl Brashear Calibre 401 Limited Edition to new heights. Beyond its impressive mechanics, I really like the Carl Brashear Calibre 401 Limited Edition's navy blue dial, which serves in perfect contrast to the bronze case. The Oris Carl Brashear Calibre 401 Limited Edition is available in a limited run of only 2,000 pieces and will be priced at 3,900CHF.
Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex
Urwerk is back with the UR-100V T-Rex. While the first model dubbed the T-Rex had a closed dial whose texture was very similar to that of the famed dinosaur's. The latest model that has taken on the T-Rex moniker now features a semi-openworked dial with Urwerk's distinctive satellite-disc configuration. The UR-100V T-Rex will be made available in a limited run of only 22 pieces with a price of 50,000CHF.
Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon "Year of the Ox"
It's been quiet on the Arnold & Son front, but here is the maison's latest piece, the Perpetual Moon "Year of the Ox". Made to commemorate the welcoming of the Chinese New Year, celebrating the Year of the Ox, the Perpetual Moon "Year of the Ox" depicts the ox in all of its might which was handcrafted in yellow gold. The dial is covered in specular hermatite gemstones with a black guilloche sky, hand-painted and pink-gold powdered pagodas, a hand-painted and silver powered constellation as well as a mother-of-pearl moon. All of this is encased in 42mm of red gold, creating a warm and inviting spectacle of haute horlogerie. The Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon "Year of the Ox" is available in a limited run of only 8 pieces and is priced at 49,900CHF.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon
I told you that this week was going to be filled to the brim with new watches. Here we have the latest haute horlogerie delicacy from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon. Available in 8-piece limited edition collections of either white or pink gold editions as well as a balls-to-the-wall baguette-cut diamond version, the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon is indeed a spectacle of marvel. Roger Dubuis' Excalibur Skeleton collection is one of my favourite openworked high horology watch families, and the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon is like the crowning jewel on this illustrious and dramatic collection of watches. Pricing to be announced.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Wired
Girard-Perregaux is celebrating its 230th birthday this year, and to commemorate this incredible achievement it will be launching its e-commerce platform, led by its latest piece, the Laureato Absolute Wired. To be sold exclusive online and through Girard-Perregaux's e-commerce platform, the Laureato Absolute Wired will herald in a new era for Girard-Perregaux. In its initial stages, the maison's e-commerce platform will only be available to its UK and US-based customers, with plans to expand that network globally.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport
My first reaction when I saw the Zenith Chronomaster Sport was "Wow, that's hot". I don't recall the last time I ever said that about a Zenith timepiece. So, that's a start. The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport bears a bold, stylistic look not that dissimilar to other modern chronographs. This looks and feels to generally be a legitimate competitor to the Speedmaster and the Daytona, both of which are as iconic as they are endeared and desired. The Zenith Chronomaster Sport boasts the brand new El Primero Calibre 3600, a much improved chronograph and in stark comparison to the groundbreaking El Primero Calibre 400. This is an interesting piece that no doubt thrusts Zenith's contemporary capacity to produce chronographs that people would actually want to own right into consideration. It's available in a variety of dial configurations, too. The Zenith Chronomaster Sport is priced at $10,000USD on a steel bracelet, while on a rubber strap it will cost $9,500USD.