Watches of the Week: 19/09/2022 - 25/09/2022


Welcome back to the next edition of Watches of the Week, my weekly series where I feature all of the notable new watch releases and news of the past seven days. In this week's instalment, I'll be highlighting new watches from Audemars Piguet, Zenith, Panerai and Girard-Perregaux. Happy reading and have a great week ahead.

You can check out last week's new watches right here, too.


Zenith DEFY Extreme E Copper X Prix

Zenith has unveiled two brand new watches in the past week, with the first being the super contemporary DEFY Extreme E Copper X Prix. This particular model celebrates the next race of the 2022 Extreme E championship, where the teams head to South America, a first for the world of electric rally car racing. Set within one of the world's foremost copper mining areas in the Atacama Desert, Chile, this race brings about an air of excitement and earthy colours reminiscent in this new DEFY Extreme model.


The DEFY Extreme E Copper X Prix is a stunning combination of carbon fibre and titanium, mixed with an aesthetic of earthy tones inspired by the Atacama Desert region. And perhaps most importantly, the DEFY Extreme E Copper X Prix features Zenith's robust and light 1/100 of a second chronograph.


Brand: Zenith Model: DEFY Extreme E Copper X Prix

Reference: 10.9100.9004-5/27. I307

Case: 45mm Case Material: Carbon/Titanium Water Resistance: 200m Calibre: El Primero 9004 Price: AUD39,000 Verdict: What might seem like a steep price-point but you show me another comparable watch with the gusto of a high-frequency chronograph for under $50,000. Another brilliant reference of the DEFY Extreme.

Zenith Chronomaster Open

The second new release from Zenith is the Chronomaster Open. Not as viscerally dramatic as the Zenith DEFY Extreme E Copper X Prix, the Chronomaster Open is a divine piece of traditional horology. It features a beautiful blue dial with a tri-colour layout, some open working in the upper left quadrant of the dial and the illustrious El Primero 3604 1/10th of a second chronograph.


The Zenith Chronomaster Open is an interesting watch that brings about the notion that sometimes the grass is greener on the other side of the fence. Well priced, well designed, executed wonderfully well and boding well as a very respectable modern chronograph.


Brand: Zenith

Model: Chronomaster Open

Reference: 03.3300.3604/51.M3300

Case: 39.50mm

Case Material: Stainless Steel Water Resistance: 100m Calibre: El Primero 3604 Price: AUD14,300 Verdict: Zenith doing what it does best normally means the end result is pure brilliance. As is the case of the new Chronomaster Open.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked

The first of a handful of new complication watches from Audemars Piguet. A few weeks back I featured the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar clad entirely in blue ceramic which really came out of left-field. The first release that I'll be covering is another blue ceramic piece, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked.


This model, reference 26600NB.OO.D346KB.01, features extensive openworking within the blue ceramic case (which has 18-carat white gold bezel and lugs). The exposure of the Calibre 2984 gives the wearer an almost uninterrupted view of some architectural magnificence capped off by a mainplate and bridges covered in shades of blue (made by a process called Atomic Layer Deposition). This is contrasted by a pink-gold-toned balance wheel and barrel, along with 70 hand-polished V-angles and a tones of grey throughout.

Brand: Audemars Piguet

Model: Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked

Reference: 26600NB.OO.D346KB.01

Case: 41mm Case Material: Blue Ceramic Water Resistance: 20m Calibre: Calibre 2984 Price: CHF199,000 Verdict: Following the new blue Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, it seems that Audemars Piguet is on a bit of a roll with the play of this novel material. Drama and theatre throughout.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon

Next up is the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon. This model features a stunning flying tourbillon surrounded by a beautiful black onyx dial offset with 18-carat pink gold hands. Encasing this spectacle is a black ceramic case with an 18-carat white gold bezel, lugs, caseback and crown.


The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon reference 26396NB.OO.D002KB.01 is an adventure in design for the maison, and it's one that I think has definitely worked. I love the look of that immense flying tourbillon set against the onyx dial. Much like a bright star dancing against the black drape of the universe. Brilliant.

Brand: Audemars Piguet

Model: Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon

Reference: 26396NB.OO.D002KB.01

Case: 41mm Case Material: Black Ceramic Water Resistance: 20m Calibre: Calibre 2950 Price: CHF146,700 Verdict: Subtle, refined and sophisticated. One for the ages.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph

Up next is the incredible Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. Fans of avantgarde watchmaking will rejoice with this new reference. It exposed every single bit of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph's movement, the magnificent Calibre 2952.

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is a contemporary venture into design and redefining modern high watchmaking. It does make for a busy aesthetic, but there is plenty of high grade finishing and meticulous attention to detail throughout the enthral even the staunchest of movement aficionados.

Brand: Audemars Piguet Model: Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Reference: 26399NR.OO.D002KB.01 Case: 41mm Case Material: Black Ceramic Water Resistance: 20m Calibre: Calibre 2952 Price: CHF272,500 Verdict: A powerful representation of Audemars Piguet flexing its horological might.


Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

The final release from Audemars Piguet is the latest Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT reference. This particular model features for the first time a titanium case with a green bezel, the latest timepiece to feature some kind of green aesthetic.


I've always loved the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT. I think it's an exciting piece of contemporary haute horlogerie, with the full black ceramic model being one of my all-time grails. This new green Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT model fits the bill of another triumphant incarnation of a legendary Concept model that is as exceptional as it is complicated.


Brand: Audemars Piguet Model: Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT Reference: 26589IO.OO.D056CA.01 Case: 44mm Case Material: Titanium and green ceramic Water Resistance: 100m Calibre: Calibre 2954 Price: CHF198,900 Verdict: Another almighty Concept model that is the perfect balance of design, complexity and status.


Panerai Luminor Due Moon Phase Addition

Panerai has updated its Luminor Due collection with a moon phase indicator, a befitting complication that now becomes the focal point of the model. The moon phase that Panerai has integrated is stunning and features a rotating disc with a 24-carat gold moon set against a midnight blue sky. The indicator will remain uniform amongst all models, sitting at the 3 o'clock position, which will add an element of symmetry with the small seconds register sitting on the opposite side.


Verdict: A welcomed addition to a staple of Panerai's watchmaking heritage.


Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue

Finally we have the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue. Featuring a titanium case fitting between two sapphire crystals and depicting the jaw-dropping calibre GP09400-1988, the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue is an incredible spectacle of high-end horology.


I really like the Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges design. It has some of the most interesting and beautiful architecture around, in particular those stunning bridges. The Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue is an airy piece that is as remarkable as it is impressive

Brand: Girard-Perregaux Model: Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue Reference: 99296-21-3128-5GX Case: 44mm Case Material: Titanium Water Resistance: 30m Calibre: GP09400-1988 Price: USD167,000 Verdict: A vivid display of haute horlogerie and the use of contemporary materials.