The year is slowly, but surely, drawing to a close. And what a year it's been. I liken the year of 2024 to be that of Jaeger-LeCoultres, Ulysse Nardin's and the independents', but with that comes a plethora of watches that fell below the radar. Not because of their inadequacies, but because the attention of the watch community perhaps didn't linger for long enough on these overlooked but wholly impressive watches.
I felt that, and somewhat surprisingly given how much attention is paid to these maisons, specific pieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin didn't exactly set the world alight, falling short of where I thought they deserved to be placed in the rankings of 2024's releases. Other notable watches that unfortunately fell into the overlooked category included the brilliant Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges, the technical Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante, the downright epic Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine and the rather polarising Chopard Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT.
Hope you enjoy the read!
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model:Â Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine
Reference:Â 5100T/000P-H041
Case: 42.50mm x 11.70mm
Case Material: Platinum
Dial: Sand-blasted platinum
Water Resistance:Â 30m
Movement: Calibre 3200
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillon, monopusher chronograph, power reserve
Frequency:Â 2.5 Hz
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Alligator leather with platinum stitching
Price: On request (Limited to 50 pieces)
Vacheron Constantin's Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine unveiling at this year's Watches And Wonders was overshadowed by a flurry of new watches. It's important to note that this is no way a reflection of the watch's stature or quality, merely the breadth of exceptional watches that were shown. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine brilliantly combined the maison's technical prowess with one of its most esteemed collections, the Platine family. By far one of my favourite releases from the watchmaker in recent years, and firmly in my top ten for 2024. Criminally overlooked and underrated.
Chopard Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT
Brand: Chopard
Model:Â Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT
Reference: 298630-3001
Case: 41mm x 8mm
Case Material: Titanium
Dial: Openworked
Water Resistance:Â 100m
Movement: Calibre L.U.C 96.17-S
Functions: Hours, minutes
Frequency: 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Titanium
Price: CHF25,200
Chopard took a risk with the Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT, and in my opinion it paid off. It's one of those watches that you need to see in the metal to appreciate. The openworked dial lacks the super fine finishing that we've come to expect from Chopard, but the Alpine Eagle's aesthetic wouldn't suit such detail. The openworked dial is industrially finished, which suits the look of the titanium case and bracelet of the Alpine Eagle really well. It wears beautifully, sitting nice and flush on the wrist, and there is enough colour differentiation from the Calibre L.U.C 96.17-S peeking through the openworked dial to break up the monochromatic look. Many felt the Alpine Eagle Skeleton 41 XP TT fell short of what Chopard could have done, but in my opinion they hit the nail right on its head with its execution.
Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar
Brand: Patek Philippe
Model:Â 5396G Annual Calendar
Reference: 5396G
Case: 38mm x 11.20mm
Case Material: White gold
Dial: Blue
Water Resistance:Â 30m
Movement: Calibre 26‑330 S QA LU 24H
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, annual calendar, moon hase, 24-hour indicator
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: USD63,510
The Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar is my favourite release of the brand this year. It combines everything a love about Patek in one beautiful timepiece. Balanced, proportionate and exceptionally finished, the Patek Philippe 5396G Annual Calendar is reminiscent of watches from yesteryear, albeit with dashes of contemporary flair. The baguette diamond hour-markers add an air of opulence to the reference, with the overall aesthetic being exactly what Patek is so beloved for.
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges
Brand: Girard-Perregaux
Model:Â Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges
Reference: 99296-52-3434-5CC
Case: 44mm x 15.35mm
Case Material: Pink gold
Dial: Openworked
Water Resistance:Â 30m
Movement: Calibre GP09400-1273
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillon
Frequency:Â 3 Hz
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Strap: Fabric
Price: CHF164,000
As far as drama and theatrics go, you can do no better than the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges. While the model itself has been slept on, I think the brand as a whole is like a sleeping giant, but that's to be discussed at another time. The Tourbillon With Three Flying Bridges in this pink gold guise is tremendous. It's extravagant, it's unique, it's striking and it has an air of complete nonchalance for anything remotely resembling convention. Overlooked and under appreciated.
Rolex Day-Date 40 Everose Slate Ombré
Brand: Rolex
Model: Day-Date 40 Everose Slate Ombré
Reference: 228235
Case: 40mm
Case Material: Everose gold
Dial: Slate Ombré
Water Resistance:Â 100m
Movement: Calibre 3255
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Strap: Everose gold
Price: AUD69,200
It's odd to see a Rolex in a list of overlooked watches, but here we are. The Day-Date 40 Everose Slate Ombré was released at Watches And Wonders 2024, but I felt that it was overshadowed by the new Bruce Wayne GMT-Master II and the solid gold Deepsea. This particular reference features a beautiful Slate Ombré dial which, in my opinion, pairs beautifully with the Everose gold case and bracelet. All of the bells and whistles of your typical Rolex Day-Date are there, too. But this one is just a little bit more special thanks to that gorgeous dial. One of the more surprising overlooked watches of the year.
Breitling Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
Brand: Breitling
Model:Â Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
Reference: RB19301A1G1S1
Case: 44mm x 15.30mm
Case Material: Red gold
Dial: Skeletonised, black sub-dials
Water Resistance:Â 100m
Movement: Breitling B19
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar, chronograph, moon phase
Frequency:Â 4 Hz
Power Reserve: 96 hours
Strap: Rubber
Price: AUD82,290
Breitling came out of the woodwork with a trip of perpetual calendar chronographs all featuring its new manufacture Breitling B19 calibre. My pick of the lot was the beefy Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary. Currently only available in this red gold guise, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a stainless steel or non-precious metal model to hopefully be released next year at some point. Very much an overlooked watch of 2024, which is insane because this thing is genuinely incredible.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier
Model:Â Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
Reference: PFH951-2010001-300181-EN
Case: 42.50mm x 14.40mm
Case Material: Rose gold
Dial: Natural Umber
Water Resistance:Â 30m
Movement: PF361-SLIM
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, split-seconds chronograph (rattrapante)
Frequency:Â 5 Hz
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Alligator leather
Price: CHF135,000
I've spoken ad nauseam about the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton and how good I think it is. And after seeing it in the metal, those sentiments have only grown stronger. But, and it's a big but. I was also super privileged to see the Toric Chronograph Rattrapante, and boy has it done a number on me. If I can speak candidly, this is one of those rare "perfect" watches. Don't like its dimensions fool you, this is neither big nor thick. It's just perfect. The ultimate goldilocks watch. Add to that one of the most beautifully finished 5 Hz split-seconds chronographs and what you have is the most overlooked watch of 2024. And a new personal grail of mine.
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