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Watches Of The Week: 06/05/2024 - 12/05/2024



Last week was dominated by the biennial Only Watch auction which was set to go ahead last year but encountered its own set of obstacles, but with over CHF20,000,000 raised, it again proved to be a huge success. But the week that was also highlighted by a handful of new watches, including some gold additions to the Girard-Perregaux Laureato collection, some new Jaeger-LeCoultre pieces, a handful of new watches from Franck Muller as well as a tonal update from Armin Strom.


Happy reading, have a great week ahead.



Girard-Perregaux's New Gold Laureato Models






  • Brand: Girard-Perregaux

  • Model: Laureato 42mm

  • Reference: 81010-52-3333-1CM/81010-52-436-52A

  • Case: 42mm x 10.68mm

  • Case Material: Pink Gold

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Calibre: GP01800-2311

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 54 hours

  • Price: CHF49,700


Girard-Perregaux unveiled two new additions to the Laureato 42mm lineage, each with a unique Clous de Paris patterned dial colour and each clad in a warm toned pink gold case. First is the Sage Green reference 81010-52-3333-1CM, available solely on a matching pink gold bracelet, while the second is the Ultramarine Blue reference 81010-52-436-52A on a pink gold bracelet, or with the option of having an alligator strap ( reference 81010-52-436-BB4A and priced at CHF33,900.). Both models are powered by the manufacture GP01800-2311 which features an abundance of finishings like circular graining on the main plate, bevelling, mirror polishing, satin finishing and hand engraving, along with straight Côtes de Genève on the bridges and circular Côtes de Genève on the pink gold rotor.


Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple






  • Brand: Armin Strom

  • Model: Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple

  • Reference: ST24-GEF.SA.AC.M.A7.FC

  • Case: 41mm x 12.65mm

  • Case Material: Stainless Steel

  • Water Resistance: 30m

  • Calibre: ASB19

  • Frequency: 3.5 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 72hours

  • Price: CHF27,500


Armin Strom unveiled Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple, made in collaboration with the legendary Kari Voutilainen who lended his expertise in creating the guilloché main plate. The piece itself is one of the maison's most important innovations, being the first watch with a patented equal-force transmission integrated into the mainspring barrel, a power reserve indication, and a unique micro-rotor design. The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple is a unique piece that marries the worlds of dial inversion with pioneering mechanics.


Franck Muller's 2024 Novelties






Franck Muller unveiled a range of new watches at its latest presentation at the 2024 World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie. The new models include a reinvigorated Cintrée Curvex Nuance which features a new sub-dial around the date aperture, available in either black, blue, red or green (AUD25,000). There is a new Cintrée Curvex Double Retrograde Hour which features a double retrograde hour complication (AUD42,800), as well as a Cintrée Curvex Retrograde Hour Day & Night which has a retrograde hour complication along with a day-night indicator (AUD42,800). Then we have the Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton, a masterpiece whose focal point is an immense tourbillon that lies in the centre of the dial (AUD350,400), and finally the Vanguard Lady Slim Vintage, made for the astute female collector looking for something slim elegant. (AUD39,100).


Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948






  • Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre

  • Model: Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948

  • Reference: Q52824E1

  • Case: 43mm x 14.13mm

  • Case Material: Pink Gold

  • Water Resistance: 50m

  • Calibre: Calibre 948

  • Frequency: 4 Hz

  • Power Reserve: 48 hours

  • Price: Price on request (Limited to 20 pieces)


Jaeger-LeCoultre's foot hasn't stepped off the gas even since its stellar showing at Watches And Wonders. Here is the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 which Jaeger-LeCoultre very quietly dropped earlier last week. The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 celebrates the maison’s Métiers Rares atelier with a green enamel dial. The dial itself takes more than 20 hours of work to create with Jaeger-LeCoultre utilising the champlevé enamelling technique, where the end result is a domed world map with beautifully decorated continents. ⁣A guillochéd disc sits below the dome and represents the ocean and seas with 15 layers of blue-green translucent lacquer. ⁣And then finally the pièce de résistance is the patented flying tourbillon, which makes a full revolution of the dial in 24 hours depicting the length of a mean solar day, as well as a world time display set on a green opaline ring around the central dial. ⁣


Jaeger-LeCoultre's New Reverso “Precious Flowers” Collection






Jaeger-LeCoultre also added three new models to the Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ Series. Crafted in pink gold, Jaeger-LeCoultre's Métiers Rares atelier was again put into action, this time showcasing its expertise in the art of decoration and haute joaillerie techniques. The three models showcase the spirit of Tropical Art Deco and with names like "Bird of Paradise", "Hibiscus Enamel" and "Hibiscus Diamonds", the thematic trend Jaeger-LeCoultre has employed here is on full display. A range of techniques were used in the creation and deocating of these pieces, including Champlevé Enamelling which is a very old method of enamelling, Paillonnage which is where small decorative elements are applied to the dial prior to the process of enamelling, Grand Feu Enamelling which requires more then 10 firings to create the intense enamel colours, as well as Gem-Setting, or the process in which the maison applies precious gems like diamonds, sapphires and rubies (which can only be done after the enamelling has been completed). Each model is limited to only 10 pieces, with pricing available upon request.

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